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Lower Mount Scott
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Blank Check S 
Brush Hog T 
Crack Pot T,TR 
Final Exit S 
Full Cavity Search T 
High Anxiety T 
Homie climber T,TR 
Homie Don't Play That (Original Name) aka Brirthday Boy T 
Layaway Plan S 
Mr. Clean T 
Pablo T 
Prickly Pear T,TR 
Repeat After Me S 
Sex Talk TR 
Slopey Slappy 
Starter Marriage T 
Stole Your Face S 
Tea Cup Arete T 
Teacup T 
Unsorted Routes:

Starter Marriage 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13 [details]
FA: Leila Cranford
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 226
Submitted By: Kevin Earls on Jun 13, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the dihedral left of Birthday Boy. The route starts out with normal dihedral cracks for a few feet and then about 10 feet of a chimney which is about a body width wide and deep. The chimney spits you out and you pull up onto a small ledge about half way up the route. Watch out for the Bull Nettle plant that will irritate your skin if you come into contact. The hard stuff is over and you can cruise up to the top placing gear as you feel the need. No anchors, but plenty of gear placements for a trad anchor.

Location 

This is in the corner left of Birthday Boy and High Anxiety on Lower Mt Scott.

Protection 

The bottom half will take some big pro (3-5") if you want to place it. Right off the deck is a 4" placement as you stem up into the chimney. A normal rack of up to 3" will get you up very easily.


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By Clay Studer
From: Dallas, TX
Sep 16, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

This route has somewhat poor rock quality and this can make it difficult to protect well at times. Also, about half way up and above the chimney is a nice place for a nut in a small cut in the rock. The crack line tends to pull the rope toward this cut and the rope will get stuck creating very bad rope drag that could be dangerous.

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