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Start From Scratch 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Kris Wild, Jen Reilly 2000
Page Views: 689
Submitted By: Dan Petty on Jul 30, 2011

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Start on a slab with a bolt and move up to the right until you reach a vertical notch which leads into a slab corner. Chimney up onto the slab with a flared finger crack in a corner. Belay anywhere you find good gear placements. Continue up the corner until the corner becomes vertical and move into a hand crack that goes through a roof. End at the bolted anchors for Calculus Crack.


100 Ft uphill from the start of St. Vitus' Dance and other routes on Baseline Ledge.


Finger gear and hand pieces for the final roof.

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By K. Carver
From: portland
Aug 17, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Yes, it is kind of dirty. But I thought this was a fun (read: more challenging) way to start all the other routes going up this swath toward First Peak. Doing the 5.10 bulgy crack P2 above kept the variation spices on the warmer side, compared to the nearby Calculus Crack.

If you climb it, they will come! In other words it's a bit dirty, but if it got more travel it would start to clean up, and then get more travel, and then clean up more, and then get more travel, and then... See how it works?
By KrisW
Nov 20, 2016

The description given above is actually for the first pitch Calculus Direct, then continuing into the second pitch of Start From Scratch. SFS actually begins another 15m up and left of CD.

P1. Scramble up to the base of a steep wall with two large trees in front. Behind the left hand tree are parallel finger cracks that turn into shallow opposing corners. (Think of a very shallow chimney). Climb this past one bolt to a ledge with a bolted anchor. 5.10b, 20m
P2. Step right and face climb up past a bolt, then traverse right into the main corner. Up the corner to the roof that's easier than it appears, continue up the low angle crack above for 10 m, then step right to the bolted belay of Calculus Crack.

This route is a bit scruffy as of 2016, but is climbable when dry. New route activity around it will likely improve its curb appeal.

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