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Starstruck T,TR 

Starstruck 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 2013
Season: Apr - Oct
Page Views: 128
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Sep 4, 2014

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Description 

Difficult crux getting through the bulge. Tape up.
Climb up the bottom slab to an awkward stance below the bulge. Hand to fist jams and a few holds and sidepulls get through the crux. Step up and left to reach a left-facing corner. Climb up it, then move up and right onto the face. Follow the crack/seam as it diminishes, make a couple easy but runout slab moves to reach the top.

Location 

This route climbs the slab along a crack to reach the bulging fist/hand crack above. It comes up very close to the right end of the Ledge.

Protection 

Standard Adk. Rack. Consider doubling up on .7 to 2".
A #4 C4 and Tri-cams may help.
Unlike the majority of routes here, this route has no fixed anchors or convenient tree at the top. There is an excellent short, vertical 3/4" crack for setting a good gear anchor at the very top of the route; or optionally, to be used as a directional for an anchor off the large oak tree to climber's left.


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