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27 Years of Climbing S 
A Brief History of Climb S 
All Draws and No Brains S 
All That Glitters T 
All That Quivers T 
Bottle Infrontome S 
Break the Scene S 
Crimpy and the Brain S 
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Guernica (To first anchor) S 
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Johnny B. Good S 
King Lives On, The S 
Mosaic S 
No Brain, No Pain S 
NoBody Wins T 
Preacher's Daughter, The S 
Random Precision S 
Short By a Foot S 
Starry Night S 
Zen and the Art of Masturbation S 

Starry Night 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dustin Stephens, Will Sweeney, 2016
Page Views: 701
Submitted By: Shirtless Mike on Nov 4, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Mighty steep!

Description 

This is some of the steepest roof climbing you will find at the somewhat moderate grade of 12a. Climb up thru a moderate start past the first bolt to a large ledge. Rest and contemplate the steep roof ahead. Climb out the roof on huge features, allowing plenty of opportunities for trickery. Get established above the route on slightly less steep terrain, and climb thru big holds but well spaced to the anchors.

Still has a "new" feel, but should clean up nicely with more ascents.

Location 

The huge roof at the left side of the Gallery. "Short by the Foot" 10c is to the left, and "Bottle Infrontome" 10d is to the right. Several routes past the hard looking 12c's "Banksy" & "Blank Canvas"

Protection 

5 Perma's + 1 bolt to anchor. Stickclip.


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By Kim Ran
Nov 20, 2016

This route is superb! It is chossy but will be even better when it is cleaned up! A roof reminiscent of Obed. Hero moves on great holds, just gotta fight the pump.
By Andrew G
From: Silver Spring, MD
Apr 11, 2017

I thought the start actually had the hardest moves, especially pulling up onto the ledge. (BETA ALERT: there's a crucial hidden pocket on the right side of the pedestal.) From there's it's pumpy and awesome hero climbing.

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