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Mormon Canyon
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Unsorted Routes:

Starlord 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 360', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Tim Keyt, Alyse Dietel
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall, Summer, Spring
Page Views: 2,277
Submitted By: Alyse Dietel on Mar 19, 2016

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Alyse Dietel on the splitter hands on pitch two. w...

Description 

Starlord climbs the obvious and stunning steep crack on the left tower-wannabe in the back of the canyon just past Goliath. This stunning route boasts three stellar pitches, two with perfect patina splitters unlike almost anything else found in Sedona. Bomber rock, bomber placements, and just a good ole time in the galaxy more than make up for the hour approach. This route is high up in the canyon, so count on it being about 20 degrees colder than Sedona proper. In the shade most of the day, with an alpine start you can avoid sun. Upper pitches get sun at about 2:30.

P1: Start in the clearing at the base of a short stembox with a bolt. Wiggle up the stembox and doe-si-doe around the corner to another directional bolt. Climb right on easy ground to the right of the bulge then move left and over the bulge to the flared hand jam. Pull through this funkadelic move to wild juggy flakes straight up to the belay below the roof. 10a

P2: Money! It’s pretty hard to get lost on this pitch, as it’s a perfect splitter almost the whole way. Make good use of runners under the roof and punch it! After the tight hands thrash and dangle, reap the reward of perfect, steep, splitter hands! Keep going past the rap chains to the belay just past the last ten feet of easy blocks. 11+

P3: Prepare to enter the rabbit hole! Head to the other side of the flake that’s just to the right of the belay. Waltz up the crack to broken twin cracks leading to a wide slot. Finagle your way up the slot and out right onto a ledge. Stand up, regain your dignity, and prepare to lose it again wiggling up and into a stunning open book feature where you will use not one, but three styles of climbing to follow the crack up and right. Take a #3 camalot for a walk up this crack to prevent drag. At the end of the book, leave your #3 at the door and get ready for some serious exposure! Edge your way out of the book and onto the exposed face splitter of glory. Follow the splitter to the corner and stem and jam your way up to the final mantle. Continue up easy ground onto the belay ledge and build an anchor (.3, .4, .5). Once your follower is up, belay each other down to the rap anchor to the climber’s left of the agave on the edge of the summit. DO NOT unrope and walk to the rap anchor. Rap with a single 70m to the next rap chains that you passed on pitch two. 10a

Location 

Approach as you would for Goliath in Mormon Canyon. Follow cairns and cut right from the wash up and to the right of Goliath into “middle wash”. Follow the wash and cairns to “upper wash” past Goliath to the back of the canyon. Follow cairns. Look for a whitewashed finger-looking crack on a tower-esque feature on your left. Starlord is around the corner on this feature. Look for the obvious roof splitter. You will dead end at a grey slab wall, leave your packs here, then walk up dirt ramp between shrubs to mini chimney.

Protection 

One 70m rope
Nuts/sliders
1x green C3 – yellow C3
1x .3, .4, .5, #4
2x .75, #3
3-4x #1, #2
2 draws
7-10 runners


Photos of Starlord Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The incredible tight-hands splitter roof on the be...
BETA PHOTO: The incredible tight-hands splitter roof on the be...
Rock Climbing Photo: Overview of pitches 1 + 2
Overview of pitches 1 + 2
Rock Climbing Photo: google map
BETA PHOTO: google map
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the base
BETA PHOTO: View from the base
Rock Climbing Photo: After freeing the roof crux
After freeing the roof crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Tim stoked after a day of free sending!
Tim stoked after a day of free sending!
Rock Climbing Photo: Tim drilling the belay anchor for pitch one below ...
Tim drilling the belay anchor for pitch one below ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo for Starlord
BETA PHOTO: Topo for Starlord

Comments on Starlord Add Comment
Show which comments
By Paul Davidson
May 16, 2016

Ahhh darn...
some one finally found this one.
I've only been thinking about doing this for 30 years...

Good job! Was there a flake near the "roof" that had to get pealed off?
By J. Snyder
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
May 17, 2016

You mean these routes sit around forever?! Funny cause I remember TNT mentioning this splitter in a roof also... You guys really like to let these things marinate!
By Tim Heid
From: AZ
May 17, 2016

Got on it the other day. First pitch had some so-so rock. The spicy section just above the ledge around the v-slot took a .3 well...which I whipped on when a foothold blew, so it's good, but a bit nerve racking since you'd ledge out if it didn't. The upper section takes more smallish gear and you are pulling on hollow sounding stuff that I don't know that I'd want to fall on. Just a little Earn-Your-Burn. Once you hit the 2nd pitch though the quality is great(and that's why you came here anyways, right?!).

Found it reasonable to link P1&2 since the gear needs are totally different. That makes it about a 115' pitch. That upper splitter is SO damn good!

I did get poison ivy from this area as an FYI....

Jeff & Paul any other known routes in this canyon? Looked like some lines were rip for the picking and I couldn't find any info....
By SummitSender
May 24, 2016
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Ya I was randomly hiking up there one day looking for a old line and once in the back of the canyon I saw this looking at me. I thought it was sent by now for sure but after the "hotel maid cleaning" just to get to the money pitch I knew it wasn't. I was lucky to find it and get the F.A. I knew Snyder had seen it almost the same time I did, which meant he was gonna have ANOTHER awesome route with his name on it... So I jumped on it fast. Thanks for the stoke Snyder!

That big flake is still there... I couldn't reach it from the route and it looks solid.

First pitch rock is more bomber than it seems. I took a crowbar to every suspicious flake and they are solid!
By J. Snyder
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
May 28, 2016

Naw wouldn't have been me... Wilson and Casey certainly had it in their crosshairs though. You got it just in time but I don't think anyone is complaining that there is now a route ready to go!
By Josh Janes
General Admin
Aug 17, 2016

So is this thing a legit tower, a kinda tower if you employ imagination, or a not a tower even remotely?
By Blake M
Sep 9, 2016

Not a tower
By markguycan
From: flagstaff, AZ
Nov 15, 2016
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

Great route, I'd only bring 3 #1 and #2's next time. Seemed easier (but more sustained) than the second pitch of Castles in the Sand. Although I hear that "Castles" is easier now that part of it fell off.
By Derek Schad
From: McCarthy, AK
Feb 24, 2017

Beautiful second pitch. Adding to Tim's comment on poison ivy - its very much present! Ivy lines the base of the slab where you drop packs. Woody stems don't hold their leaves in the winter while this route is in so be aware!

That said, I'd get covered a hundred times over for that second pitch! Cheers to this stellar little gem.

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