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Trick Or Treat Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Gloria's Climb S 
Starlight, Starbright T 
Twilight's Last Gleaming T 

Starlight, Starbright 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
FA: John Jackson 1994
Page Views: 207
Submitted By: Brad Young on Oct 9, 2014

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This route shares a start with "Gloria's Climb" on Trick Or Treat Wall's small west face. Begin 25 feet left (around and up) from the far left edge of Trick Or Treat Wall's main, south face (start in the same place as the 5.11a route "How 'Bout Just Tip?"). Climb up and right on 5.6 face to the first bolt on "Gloria's Climb." Move up and then around onto the extreme left edge of the wall's south face.

The two routes separate here. For Starlight Starbright, move up and right (past a good gear placement) to the sixth bolt on the next route to the right: "Twilight's Last Gleaming" (note, join this bolted route at it's sixth bolt, not at its fourth bolt as indicated in the John Jackson guidebook). Follow "Twilight's Last Gleaming" past four more bolts to a two bolt anchor (open cold shuts) on a face. Lower or rappel 95 feet from these to the ground.

Note: This just isn't a good route; "Gloria's Climb" and "Twilight's Last Gleaming" just don't connect well naturally. And clipping some of the bolts on "Twilight's" requires some odd, almost-beyond-the-grade climbing, whereas staying significantly left of those bolts would result in easier movement (and yes, this route pre-dated "Gloria's Climb," but this comment reflects what is there on the cliff now).


One bolt, followed by a good two inch piece, followed by five more bolts. It may also be possible to supplement the upper bolts with gear (although there are no obvious opportunities to do so). It is a long way from the fifth to the sixth bolts, and, although the first 25 feet of this run-out are very easy, the last ten feet are about 5.6.

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By John Jackson
Oct 9, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

Glad to hear this wall is getting some ascents finally.
The description for this route is a bit off, if following the original line.

Hopefully this will help:
This climb is usually done as a three pitch route (though possible to rap 90' after the first pitch) with the third pitch being, far and away, the best climbing on the route. The first pitch traverses in at the height of the fourth bolt on "Twilights Last Gleaming" (Unless bolts have been added to that route) The route goes up, after traversing in and before reaching that 4th bolt (which you don't clip) on "Twilights Last Gleaming". The route stays well to the left of "Twilights Last Gleaming" until joining it near the top of the first pitch; though if concerned about the runout, on terrain up to 5.6, it is possible/a bit awkward to clip bolts on "Twilights Last Gleaming" in the middle section of the first pitch as well.

A bit of history about this climb:
The first ascent was done ground up, without bolts, prior to any other routes on this section of the wall having been explored. On the first ascent I tossed the rope down after the first pitch, as the sun had gone down and my partner had no desire to follow in the dark (moonless night) without a headlamp.(Hence "Starlight, Starbright" guide my way tonight....) Believing, mistakenly, that I was only about 50' from the top of the cliff I preceded to solo the short 5.3 chimney to the top, only to discover that what I had thought was going to be the top of the cliff instead turned out to be a large ledge (With at least another 50' of unknown vertical climbing above)In the darkness, with no headlamp and no knowledge of where I was headed, I escaped out left over chossy/loose terrain; this included climbing up a dead/rotting log that was only barely hanging onto/lodged on the rock, and which was gone the next time I went out there, yikes! The third pitch (the wildly featured "money" pitch) was done on a subsequent day, after I returned and added bolts to the otherwise unprotectable third pitch face.

Imo; First pitch is 5.7 (has runout 5.6) is two+ stars if following the original trad route, second pitch (5.3 short chimney to relocate the belay 50') is no stars, and the third pitch is fun/wild bolt protected 5.8 (which includes climbing up horizontal "fins" of rock and into and out of two huecos) and is a short, three star pitch.
By Brad Young
Oct 10, 2014

Thanks for the additional information, John. And for the history. I've always been a huge fan of climbing history (it's one thing, for example, that the Supertopo books do right). That's an excellent name in context too. I'm not so sure that I like your personal/first ascent history here though. Very glad you survived (and without even a night out!).

So this route is the multi-pitch route and not Twilight's Last Gleaming? If that is true, should I edit these entries?

Regarding where this route meets up with Twilight's, that route's fourth bolt is slightly lower than one's feet after pulling onto the main/south face and moving a little right (toward Twilight). It would be possible to clip Twilight's fifth bolt, but that wouldn't make sense and would cause rope drag. Obviously I have no idea whether bolts have been added since you did your description.

Also, obviously, I was climbing the route as described in the book. Climbing it that way, the Twilight's bolts are hard to clip and in awkward places.

And, as of a few minutes ago, you hadn't responded to my comments about Twilight's rating and a broken hold. I'm very curious if you know what's up with that route.
By John Jackson
Oct 10, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

Starlight,Starbright and Twilights Last Gleaming (another route that was done as the sun was setting) share the very top of the first pitch and the second two pitches, though the "original" finish exited left after the second pitch via easy 5th/4th class scrambling (the direct, 5.8 face, finish is much better) I just read your entry about "Twilight Lasts Gleaming" and will add a comment.

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