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Stardust Cowboy 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Ed Webster and Chester Dreiman, 1982
Season: Sun on white calcite!
Page Views: 2,712
Submitted By: Ken Trout on Apr 13, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Star Dust Cowboy is "F". This is an unf...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


This great adventure climbs to the summit via a bolt ladder. .

Use either the North Chimney approach or the first 25 foot pitch of Kor-Ingalls to get to the big ledge.

Pitch one is steep and clean all the way, 5.11-. The crux requires Indian Creek style thin hands endurance. It ends with steep 5.9 hands to Ed's first bolt. From there climb up left to the big ledge below pitch two of Arrowhead Left. This bolt helps protect the second. If your skipping the bolt ladder finish, then Kor-Ingall's lowest anchor is the best option back to the trail with a single 70m rope.

Pitch two begins with traversing back right to the pitch one bolt and then moving up a 5.7 arete onto the white face. A fragile 5.10 lieback is done and some loose blocks may need passing before the belay ledge is reached.

Pitch three is the bolt ladder.

Pitch four traverses right into the top of the North Chimney and finishes via Kor-Ingalls. Careful climbing and communication may be needed to keep climbers in the North Chimney safe from loose stuff. There are no anchors on the sub-summit, just dangerously loose rocks. Going to the sub-summit is not part of the route.


See Photo of Sketch.


Bring an almost-Indian Creek rack for 25 meters of steep variable hand jams. I have not done the bolt ladder (yet), but bring aiders because the FA party could no-doubt stretch bolts beyond the limits of french-free.

Photos of Stardust Cowboy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Great climbing on pitch 2
Great climbing on pitch 2

Comments on Stardust Cowboy Add Comment
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From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Nov 15, 2015

The bolt ladder pitch is straight forward ..old gear but no problem.Its about a 100' so one needs plenty of biners.
By greg t
From: Chevy, Silverado
Dec 10, 2015

Really fun route!

P2 seemed on the harder side of 5.10 if not 11- ( just for a bit ). The loose blocks didn't seem to bad, but I wouldn't trust gear in the flake.

An optional finish for the 4th pitch would be to take the easy handcrack up and left. This joins up with the kor-ingals and avoids the North Chimney. It seemed like a better option for rope drag and communication. Although, use extreme caution with the massive rocker block you crawl up and over around the corner.

You don't need as much gear as the book suggests. You would probably be fine with a double set from red c3 - #1bd with triples in #.75 1x #2, 1x #3. 8x runners and harvest the biners for the 16ish bolt ladder.

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