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Starbuck 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 146
Submitted By: Danger on Sep 20, 2014

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Description 

on top of the whales head, instead of following the corner crack like Ishmael, climb the arete above the belay station.

Athletic moves on good holds(including one wild flaky feature) along with worse feet and great pro make this a pumpy, thrilling way to finish after Moby Dick.

Top out on an easy slab -- backup the tat anchors with a few cams to belay your second up and rap from the bolted anchors further inland to either the skywall or Harmless anchors, or directly down to the ground with a 70m rope.

Protection 

Rack to 2 for the climb but a 3 comes in handy for the anchor.
Rappel: titanium (2016)


Comments on Starbuck Add Comment
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By Danger
From: Taipei City
Sep 20, 2014

Not sure if this has been done before but wanted to list this because it is a KICKASS climb that's not in the book.
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
Apr 19, 2016
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Can easily be linked with Moby Dick for one of the longest and most exposed routes at Long Dong. Fantastic though brief climbing up a wild feature to a comfortable top-out belay.

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