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(4) Star Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Asteroid Dust (Morning Star Extension) T 
Cry of the Gerbil  S 
Dark Star T 
Daytime Drama S 
Freon T 
Johnny and the Mellonheads T 
Last Days T 
Left Wing T,S 
Lethal Dose T,TR 
Levitate T 
Mantra T 
Mantra Extension T 
Morning Star T 
Neutron Star T 
St. Paddee's Day T 
Tim S 
Turning Point T 

(4) Star Wall Rock Climbing 


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Administrators: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Sep 27, 2006
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Description 

The full-height left side of this wall is home to some of the most classic difficult cracks in the gorge, including the classics Dark Star (5.11d/12a), Neutron Star (5.12a), and Morning Star (5.10c).

Getting There 

This is the next wall upstream from the Catwalk cliff.

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.2 miles from here

17 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',9],['5.11',3],['5.12',5],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in (4) Star Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for (4) Star Wall:
Mantra   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   
Morning Star   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Left Wing   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport   
Dark Star   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Neutron Star   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Johnny and the Mellonheads   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   
Cry of the Gerbil    5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in (4) Star Wall

Featured Route For (4) Star Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: My wife following Morning Star just about at the c...

Morning Star 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  Oregon : Smith Rock : ... : (4) Star Wall
Finding this classic route is trivial: hike the trail till you see the 2-foot etching of a climber in the rock. Route starts on left side of the etching. Route offers perfect pro all the way. Stem and jam a 1-inch crack (10-). Crux hits about 30-40 feet up as the stems run out and the finger jams become very shallow. Going eases somewhat just above as some wide stemming again becomes possible. Note the cool hand holds just below double bolt anchors. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Oregon

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