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Pitchoff Chimney Cliff
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El, The T 
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Star Sailor T 
Wald-Calder Route T 

Star Sailor 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: April, 1981--Don Mellor
Page Views: 1,010
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Aug 8, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Well-protected, pumpy crack climbing through a steep bulge characterize this airy journey.

Climb the first 6 feet of the traversing 2nd pitch of "Pete's Farewell", then climb the short face to reach the bottom of the initial crack.

Take this until it's end, make a balancy move left a couple feet to reach the bottom of the right-facing corner. Hard moves over this to a welcomed rail. Mantel onto the rail, place some gear and blast through the final bulge, with smeary feet and thin finger locks.

Finish the route by traversing right a couple feet into the final, blocky steeps of "The Disputed". Shared chain anchors.


6-feet into the traversing 2nd pitch of "Pete's Farewell".


A rack of small to medium nuts, plus finger size cams up to A single #2.

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By Nick Weinberg
From: Lyme, NH
Aug 6, 2014

Beautiful, well protected finger crack with great position, on great rock!!! I think one of the better finger cracks in the park.
By Dom R
From: Estes Park, Colorado
Apr 26, 2016

What a great finger crack. The sustained portion before the crux follows fun first knuckle locks with pastey feet, and a couple decent rest stances, the crux is full on, then it's moderate to the top with long reaches between big holds. Don't pass it up if you're in the area.
By Jim Lawyer
Jun 30, 2017
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The only downside to this route is having to disrupt the constant train of folks on Pete's Farewell to access the start. Other than that, it's a top route!

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