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King on the Throne - East
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Stan's Roof T 
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Stan's Roof 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Stan Caldwell
Page Views: 222
Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Jul 29, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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Brian feeling the sting of a Throne sandbag...


Either wedge yourself in the chimney and have some physical fun or pinch the arete to the right. either way, eventually reach a roof with great hand jams and pull it.


The route is just left of the Snakes and Ladders face. The obvious roof w/ a thin hand crack.


Up to a #2 camalot. Lots of small stuff for the lower corner. Descend via a tree w/ slings and rap rings.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 13, 2016
By Nick Stayner
From: Billings, MT
Jul 29, 2006

I put the route in the database as a .10- because that's how it's listed in the book. Personally, I feel the thing's a scorchin' sandbag! The roof is easy, but the lower dihedral is REALLY physical!!
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Sep 27, 2006

Great route, but you better enjoy some good ol' fasion "body english", or you won't be having a good time....
By Wavey
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 6, 2007

scary down low with minimal good pro. physical. good route though.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 1, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Probably 10b or 10c. The stemming work is not rudimentary. Beware of sandbags. A few small nuts protect some interesting climbing, so not for the trad noobie. Fun route though, and certainly height dependent.
By bbrock
From: Al
Jun 5, 2007

This entire rock is just full of sandbags.
By Courtney Pace
From: Sandy
Sep 5, 2010

Definitely a rewarding climb. the portion below the roof requires a few tricky placements with some not so regular moves. I agree with the "body english" statement, but its a cruise past the roof.
By Lucas Barth
From: Devils Tower, WY
Sep 23, 2010

"Descend via a tree with rap rings"
-Maybe I missed this tree, but I just built an anchor, brought my second up and descended the chains atop groovy crack.
From: Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
Dec 2, 2012

This was a popular test piece as early as '76. Did it that year with Rick Wyatt - off width master. And, we found an old fixed pin just above the little roof.
By dave bingham
Apr 20, 2015

Yep, 10- is a sandbag. After review, I'm going with 10c!
By Sean A Smith
From: South Salt Lake, UT
Apr 18, 2016
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

The gear at the crux is not amazing but you can place a couple of pieces that seem adequate. I ended up placing a 000 C3 at one point.
By CamBrown
From: Clackamas
Jun 13, 2016

A purple #0 micro master cam and a small nut protected the crux. Once I jammed the roof it felt soooo good! Short and stout for the grade.

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