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Kid Fears Direct Start S 
Afternoon Delight T,S 
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Balance Climb 1 T,TR 
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Balance Climb 3 T,TR 
Balance Climb 4 T 
Balance Climb 5 T,TR 
Balance Climb 6 T,TR 
Balance Climb 8 T,TR 
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First Overhang T 
First Overhang - Right T 
Gather No Moss T 
Kid Fears T 
Latest Edition T 
Limited Edition T 
Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds T 
New Standards S 
Obscured By Clouds S,TR 
Overhang Approach T 
Slip and Slide T 
Snake Route T 
Special Edition T 
Stairway to Heaven T 
Stannard's Crack T 
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Two Man Party Blue S 
Two Man Party Green S 
Two Man Party Orange T,S,TR 
Two Man Party Red T,S,TR 
Two Man Party White S 
Two-Man Party Yellow S 
Unsorted Routes:

Stannard's Crack 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: FFA, John Stannard, 1972
Page Views: 4,125
Submitted By: Joey Wolfe on Dec 2, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Tim Leyden on Stannard's Crack. Jody Jacobs belayi...


Climb overhanging layback crack to bookshelf ledge. Mantel onto ledge and climb blocky terrain to the top. This climb has a lot to offer despite it's size. A must do at Yonah.


Located on the Second Overhang at the climbers right on top of the Main face. Obvious crack located left of .12b 2 bolt route called New Standards. Edges to Ledges, Limited Edition, or Special Edition are good choices for an approach pitch but you can scramble down from the top or find one of the many easy 5th class ways up on the far right of the Main face.


A BD #2 or similar size will protect the first few moves. The rest is easy to protect with 4 or so micro cams. I used black through yellow aliens. A few more pieces would sew it up. There is the potential for decking onto the slab due to the overhanging nature of this climb and the fact that the crux is low.

Photos of Stannard's Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Oakley at the start of Stannard's Crack.
Oakley at the start of Stannard's Crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: Lest anyone get the idea this route isn't expo...
BETA PHOTO: Lest anyone get the idea this route isn't expo...

Comments on Stannard's Crack Add Comment
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By Jeff Mekolites
From: ATL GA
May 1, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

After climbing this route again, I have to say that there is no way this climb is might have been 5.8 in the '70's but it ain't 5.8 now...."warning, sandbag ahead"
By Joey Wolfe
Mar 11, 2009

I was up there again this last weekend and got on Stannard's. When i climbed it the first time i thought it was a sandbag but didn't want to add it to with my opinion of the grade so i went with what the DCA claimed. Now there is a reprint of the DCA and it puts Stannard's at 5.9.

After climbing it again I feel confident in calling it a 5.9+, short but thuggish right off the deck and placing the gear in the crux is strenuous. Not to mention it holds a exposed position above the main face(possibly the most beautiful spot on yonah).

I'm going to leave the original post at 5.8 to keep Jeff's comments relevant and because he made his comment after visiting the crack with Henry Barber(right?). HB had me laughing with his comments about Stannard's Crack at his slideshow.
By BirminghamBen
From: Birmingham, AL
Jun 7, 2009

H-A-R-D...watched Tim thrutch up it with prcatically no gear through the crux because of the pump.
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Sep 28, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

This thing is V1 and PG13. Might as well bring a crash pad, because your not getting gear in the crux.
By James Dowdy
Mar 22, 2016
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

Don't let anyone mislead you: this was never, ever, ever 5.8!!
It is a beautiful 10-; classic in every way imaginable - and, difficult to protect...
Man, this climb has everything going for it!!!

Downgrade it to 5.9 if you must - but please acknowledge how bold and prescient this was back when much of the world had minimal concept of 5.10...or even 5.9...

Kudos to John Stannard - a historically underrated first ascent!

Have fun,


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