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Stanley-Burgner Route 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 500', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Read the route name
Season: Spring - Fall
Page Views: 18,492
Submitted By: Karsten Duncan on Mar 22, 2006

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You can either stick to the inside of the crack or...


This is one of the finest alpine routes you may ever experience. The climbing is sustained, varied, and amazing.

Burgner-Stanley is a direct and obvious route visible from the ground on superb rock with high quality pitches. Pitches 1-2 and 3-4 can be linked into c. 180-ft pitches, easily.

P1: Climb either a 5.6/5.7 chimney or a 5.8 wide crack to the left of the chimney to gain low fifth class terrain with trees.

P2: Scramble up to the last tallest tree, facing a knobbed wall with a thin crack going up.

P3: Climb the crack and exit right on large knobs until you reach the deep gully.

P4: Climb the gully and belay underneath a good ledge below the obvious chockstone. 5.8

P5: Tunnel between the chockstone and climb nice cracks up into a flaring squeeze chimney. Build a belay atop the chimney and move the belay right to start P6. 5.9

P6: Climb up the left facing corner and summit! 5.9+

Pro to 4" with doubles in .75 -2. Include TCU's.

Walk eastward once on the summit and rappel the north face with slung belay stations. Rappel with either 1 or 2 ropes.


The route goes up the south face of the peak. Traverse the lake until you find the start. Walk off the west face route or rappel the north side of the peak. Also beware of the snafflehounds. They will eat your shoes, gear, etc!!!


A set of doubles to #3 camalots are best but many can go with less. There is little fixed gear on this route or at the top.

Photos of Stanley-Burgner Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 2 more moves to the summit.  I found this to be th...
2 more moves to the summit. I found this to be th...
Rock Climbing Photo: First pitch 5.8 variation.  It is similar to the 5...
First pitch 5.8 variation. It is similar to the 5...
Rock Climbing Photo: D. Lucander on the outstanding final pitch corner ...
D. Lucander on the outstanding final pitch corner ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The final pitch corner.
The final pitch corner.
Rock Climbing Photo: First pitch starting options.  5.7 chimney on the ...
BETA PHOTO: First pitch starting options. 5.7 chimney on the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 5 tunnel
Pitch 5 tunnel
Rock Climbing Photo: Cranking up the final pitch.  What a great climb!
Cranking up the final pitch. What a great climb!
Rock Climbing Photo: Cruising the last pitch.
Cruising the last pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Exiting the squeeze chimney.
Exiting the squeeze chimney.
Rock Climbing Photo: In the squeeze.  Photo by Brad J.
BETA PHOTO: In the squeeze. Photo by Brad J.
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the summit block
View from the summit block
Rock Climbing Photo: Squeezing through the chockstone
BETA PHOTO: Squeezing through the chockstone
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading the great chimney pitch high up Stanley-Bu...
Leading the great chimney pitch high up Stanley-Bu...
Rock Climbing Photo: Dan Hughes ascends the 3rd pitch cracks.
Dan Hughes ascends the 3rd pitch cracks.
Rock Climbing Photo: Final and Crux pitch.  It's actually vertical desp...
Final and Crux pitch. It's actually vertical desp...

Comments on Stanley-Burgner Route Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 14, 2016
By Ian Wolfe
From: Fayetteville, NC
Apr 17, 2006

The Selected Climbs in the Cascades guidebook calls this route the South Face.
By Addict
Aug 16, 2006

There are over 10 routes on the south face. Everyone calls it the Stanley Burgner route so it is not confused with other lines like the South Face - Beckey Route, South Face - The Javalin, South Face - The Joust, etc., etc.
By rpc
Sep 8, 2006

I think it might be PG13 if you begin via the 5.7 chimney (have not done)? There are no runouts if you start via the 5.8 wideness just left of chimney. Everything else on the route can be laced up.
By Rafe
Aug 23, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Not that it really matters, but the route is longer than 500ft and isn't PG-13.
By Wesley Ashwood
From: Squamish, BC
Aug 2, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

We did the 5.8 variation and immediately got into a beautiful hand crack which is way more appealing to me than any chimney out there. Linked this pitch with the short 4th class second pitch and belayed at the top of the larch trees. Went up the crack trending right, then up a short slab to a dihedral. I am not sure if this first dihedral you come to is a the standard route but it seemed a little stiffer that 5.8 to me (5.9 I would say). We also linked the 3rd and 4th pitches but I wouldn't suggest this as rope drag was a little much.
By J-Wright
Nov 24, 2010

I lead the chimney years go. Not very much fun. Go for the crack start.
By T. Gittins
From: bozeman
Feb 11, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

i agree, not pg-13...crux pitch is well protected and oh-so-splitter
By Mike McL
From: South Lake Tahoe, CA
Aug 15, 2011

If leading near your limit a 4 inch piece is very useful on the first 5.8 pitch (the left variation) as well as the final pitch.
By lucander
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Aug 25, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

We broke up the pitches differently than the guidebook and belayed on a good stance just after the chockstone chimney. This let us get cool pictures of the follower and have a better belay for the crux squeeze. I found the squeeze to the be the hardest part of the route - I'll call it 5.9+ because it felt like 5.10b.

Be careful on rappel, there's lots of loose rocks waiting for your rope to knock off. We found shredded rope ends at the bottom - yikes.
By William Rhyne
From: Casper, Wyoming
Aug 5, 2014

My partner Tim B. and Myself just completed our car to car from the snow creek parking lot of the Stanley-burgner. We started at 1:56am and returned at 4:59 on 8-2-14. 14:55 hours was our time. We drove up from Portland Friday night and drove back Saturday night after the climb, think that was probably the crux for me.
We hauled up two fours and a Five but didn't use them at all. I thought the whole route protected well on gear up to 3-3.5 inch piece, even the wide sections take small gear.

Beautiful piece of rock and so quality. I Definitely want to try to a car to car for the solid gold route.
By iryna
From: eugene, or
Jun 15, 2015
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Wonderful route, but it's only 5.9+ if you are a solid offwidth climber! I personally found it harder, the last pitch seemed like a burly 5.10-. the squeeze chimney is 5.impossible if you dont know how to climb narrow chimneys. we brought only one #4 cam and doubles in everything smaller, that #4 was used often. this is an adventurous route as we've learned, takes some balls to finish it. we climbed it in the middle of June expecting nice sunny weather, it became even more fun when it snowed on us :) topped out at 10 pm and had to find our way back in the dark. also, the approach requires a lot of energy, you have to be ridiculously fit to do it car to car, i applaud anyone who has done it. but the views are amazing! you only get to enjoy them if you work for them.
By BrettPurchase
From: Seattle, Washington
Oct 9, 2015

I led every pitch on this route a couple of days ago. Just to clarify some misinformation out there: a number 5 is not needed on this route, the squeeze is hard work but protects great, and the descent can easily be done with one 60. It's certainly a very high quality route in an unmatched venue.
By Andy Jackson
Jun 13, 2016

Did this route yesterday. Windy, cold and it even began to snow. The crux for me was definitely the flare chimney! Takes great gear (#.5 - #3) I found it very exhausting/tight (maybe because I'm 6'4"). The final headwall pitch is the money pitch for sure. We descended the west ridge with a few short raps to avoid the snow on the north face. Route dries quick and into play early in the season. Incredibly clean, solid stone!
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 5 chimney.
Pitch 5 chimney.
By Matt M
From: Seattle, WA
Sep 14, 2016

The 4th pitch variation crack is really nice (the pitch before the keyhole slot, go around to the left and you'll see a hand crack on the face to your right) and worth doing. However, when you get to the top of the crack I think the anchor opportunities are poor there. Then you have to go right and step across to get to below the keyhole, and if you're not careful rope drag will be bad.

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