|Original:||Hueco: V9 Font: 7C [details]|
|Submitted By:||Christian Prellwitz on Oct 5, 2013|
|Comments on Stanfields aka Tommy The Cat||Add Comment|
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By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Oct 5, 2013
Everything you could ever want in a boulder problem.
There is a v11-ish sit start that starts down and right of the flake on edges and moves left into the starting flake via some small holds.
May 4, 2015
I've even heard of a 3rd name for this climb (though I've forgotten it). Does anyone know if this has a different name for each variation or something?
I know of 3 ways to do this:
1.) The right hand sidepull as per the description
2.) Dyno straight to the rail
3.) Go straight up to a left hand crimp/gaston turn your hips to face the wall and hit the rail
I use #3 and have tried the dyno a lot, I usually go too hard or too soft on the dyno and have never actually stuck it, the sweet spot is really hard to hit.
This is my current project and I am VERY close, I will post video of the very uncommon #3 beta when I get it.