Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Front Boulder
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Block Top 
Block Top Sit Start 
Cooker 
Descent Slab 
Hooker 
Looker 
McMidgetson 
Slice 
Slice Variation 
Slobadon 
Stanfields aka Tommy The Cat 

Stanfields aka Tommy The Cat 

Hueco: V9 Font: 7C

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Original:  Hueco: V9 Font: 7C [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 62
Submitted By: Christian Prellwitz on Oct 5, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

Arguably the best problem at McKenzie Pond.

Stand start matched on an obvious crimp flake at 6 feet. Move right hand to a small sidepull out right and then bump again to a small, but decent crimp rail above (these moves are the crux). Figure out a way to get your left hand on the crimp rail. Get a high foot and jump/deadpoint to the sloping, but good lip out right. Throw a heel on and wrestle over the top. Done!

A very aesthetic and pure line that climbs beautifully. Full value.

Location 

Located to the right of Slobadon (and to the right of a tree that leans against the boulder).

Protection 

Several pads are ideal


Comments on Stanfields aka Tommy The Cat Add Comment
Show which comments
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Oct 5, 2013

Everything you could ever want in a boulder problem.

There is a v11-ish sit start that starts down and right of the flake on edges and moves left into the starting flake via some small holds.
By eddysamson
May 4, 2015

I've even heard of a 3rd name for this climb (though I've forgotten it). Does anyone know if this has a different name for each variation or something?

I know of 3 ways to do this:

1.) The right hand sidepull as per the description
2.) Dyno straight to the rail
3.) Go straight up to a left hand crimp/gaston turn your hips to face the wall and hit the rail

I use #3 and have tried the dyno a lot, I usually go too hard or too soft on the dyno and have never actually stuck it, the sweet spot is really hard to hit.

This is my current project and I am VERY close, I will post video of the very uncommon #3 beta when I get it.