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Lower Bulge Buttress
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Standup Flake 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 165'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,669
Submitted By: Jeff R. on Sep 17, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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an obscure route, right in front of your face.

Description 

A steep lie back gets your attention just off the belay; this is most likely the crux of the climb. The climb protects well, but can be a little pumpy at the start; so move quickly to avoid landing on your belayer.

Location 

This is a large obvious flake that runs right through the center of the Lower Bulge Buttress. It is 165 feet to the top and can also be a good first pitch to get to the start of Super Pooper, The Step or The Flakes.

Protection 

Small to three inch camalots will do the trick. The large pine tree on top of the buttress works well for an anchor, but can be full of sap; consider building an anchor just past the tree.


Photos of Standup Flake Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The strenuous start to Standup Flake. Photo credit...
The strenuous start to Standup Flake. Photo credit...
Rock Climbing Photo: Standup Flake from the belay.
Standup Flake from the belay.

Comments on Standup Flake Add Comment
Show which comments
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
Jun 11, 2012

A great way to start any of the upper routes and a 60m rope gets you to the base of either Super Pooper or The Step in 1 pitch, avoiding the sappy tree.
By Keane Anderson
Jul 10, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This was my first climb at Tahquitz and boy was I scared (in a good way). I rapped from the tree anchor with my 70m rope with a few feet to spare on each end. It's a worthy single pitch.
By Ryan Strickland
From: Idyllwild, CA
Oct 27, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Decent climb, not really worth the approach in my opinion. There were some fun moves. Felt hard to me when compared to other local 5.9s. Could be due to the incredible wind and cold when I did it.

The approach involves a couple hundred feet of 3rd/4th class in a pretty dangerous location if any rocks were to fall from above.
By tom donnelly
From: san diego
Jul 25, 2015

Just below where this flake starts is a steep left facing 16 foot high wall, which has a perfect 2 inch crack, approx. 10b, which is a great way to get to the Standup Flake.

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