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Standby Shack (a.k.a. The Shack)

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Dog House, The 
Entrance Pinnacle 
Main Wall 

Standby Shack (a.k.a. The Shack) Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 35.8132, -106.1444 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 13,130
Administrators: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Aaron Miller on Aug 3, 2013

83° | 54°

82° | 56°

76° | 50°

74° | 47°

72° | 47°

71° | 47°
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BETA PHOTO: topo of shack


This is a new crag located on the back side of Diablo Mesa, the same Mesa with the Solar Cave and Winter Wall, just the northeast aspect. The climbing starts where you see a large detached pinnacle that, between it and the walls, forms a nice little valley to hang out and watch the sports action.

The Shack is best climbed in warm seasons as it gets full shade all morning until about 2pm. In the Summer, you will be hiking out when the sun hits. But it does stay nice and cool all day so it is a pleasant Summer crag. There are currently 20+ routes here with some further potential for a few more quality lines. The presence of a handful of routes in the 5.13 range at this crag is also a nice addition to the Santa Fe sport climbing scene.

Many of the routes require a stick to clip the first bolt.

Getting There 

The crag is not visible from the road. Drive past the main Diablo parking area and when you are about to pass Diablo Mesa all together, look for a pullout on either right or left side of the road in arroyos.

A trail begins on the other side of the arroyo and heads up a gulley then traverses out to the nose of a prominent ridge detached from the main cliffband.

When parking on the roadside, beware of sandy berms pushed up by the graders, several 2WD trucks have gotten stuck in these berms. Best to have AWD or 4WD or park further up the road where you can pull off without berms(across form the pump station). You can also bring a shovel and easily clear a little path for your car to clear the berm. If in a 2WD truck, BRING A SHOVEL!

Climbing Season

Weather station 6.8 miles from here

37 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',21],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Standby Shack (a.k.a. The Shack)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Standby Shack (a.k.a. The Shack):
Frogger   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Main Wall
DogGone It   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 70'   The Dog House
32 Flavors   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Main Wall
Squeeze Whiz   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Main Wall
Tupper-Where   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Main Wall
Live to Pull   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   Main Wall
Block of Life   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Main Wall
Crispy the Renegade   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Main Wall
Legend of the Fall ("LRP" Variant)   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   Main Wall
40-Love   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   Main Wall
Mortal Kombat   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Main Wall
Gauntlet   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Main Wall
A Thousand Yards of Drift (the whole route)   5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Main Wall
Ring Around The Rosie   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Main Wall
Tempest   5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Main Wall
Urban Legend   5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Main Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Standby Shack (a.k.a. The Shack)

Featured Route For Standby Shack (a.k.a. The Shack)
Rock Climbing Photo: Keith Beckley on  Tupper-Where (5.11+)

Tupper-Where 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a  New Mexico : Santa Fe Area : ... : Main Wall
I felt this climb, just left of Fire on the Mountain, was the best fully bolted climb at the Shack under 5.12. Good rock, and a sustained crux on a tricky arête made it rewarding. The slab face passing the last couple of bolts has some lichen but it's no big deal....[more]   Browse More Classics in New Mexico

Photos of Standby Shack (a.k.a. The Shack) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Directions and trail-head map
BETA PHOTO: Directions and trail-head map
Rock Climbing Photo: Approach to the Shack from Buckman Road
BETA PHOTO: Approach to the Shack from Buckman Road
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo photo of the Shack
BETA PHOTO: Topo photo of the Shack

Comments on Standby Shack (a.k.a. The Shack) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Eric Whitbeck
May 9, 2014
The area looks great and I am looking forward to checking it out this weekend. However, on my computer screen the topo photos are nearly impossible to read. Any chance Aaron can switch the color of the text? Maybe it is just my screen or my old age. Bifocals are next.

Thanks for sharing the beta and putting up what look like great routes.
By Shirtless Mike
From: Denver, CO
Oct 13, 2014
How about lumping the Live, Renaissance, and Renegade sectors back into one area? I agree with sorting out the Dog House and entrance pinnacle, but the other areas being separated when it is one wall adds to the confusion for me.
By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 24, 2015
Agreed, the three sectors setup was quite confusing. As of 9/23/2015, they've all been lumped into one Main Wall section again. If anyone finds any route sorting errors, please let me know.

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