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Standard 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 350', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
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Submitted By: Marta Reece on Aug 20, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Topo.

Description 

The route is rated 5.6 on the old topo, but definitely felt harder than that.

Pitch 1, (60 ft, 5.7) Go up on the left side of the boulder and then to the top of it using either the gully or going up the boulder itself. First protection piece is rather high, but it is okay after that. When faced with a wet rock, we have also climbed it on the right side of the boulder instead.

Pitch 2, (170 ft, 5.7) Go up the staircase heading slightly left. The crux move is up a steep featured bulge, which is fortunately fully protectable. Go up the slab from there and traverse left along a crack, past an old bolted anchor. Continue up a wide-open right-facing corner. This part is run out, but the climbing is easy. Continue up and gradually slant to the right.

Pitch 3, (80 ft, 5.7) Continue up the now better defined right-facing corner. Once at the top of it, the route is supposed to be going left to a tree. I took instead a well defined, protectable, and clean corner to a tree there.

Location 

Standard Route starts about 200 feet above the bottom of the gully, where the wall gets suddenly steeper, below the left end of a large boulder on the wall above. The best way to get there is to go up the gully to the level of the band of trees and then go right within the band. The bushwhack is not bad at all. The gully leading up to it can be done almost exclusively in the boulder field and is not bad either.

Rap down from a tree to the left and up from the end of the final corner. Go to the dead pine tree and from there down. The first rappel can be done with a single 60m rope. It takes two 60m's for the second.

Protection 

We had doubles up to #3 and a #4, nuts, and tricams. The old bolt anchor is down to a single quarter-inch bolt and not worth clipping.


Photos of Standard Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dashed line is the route, as best we can figure it...
BETA PHOTO: Dashed line is the route, as best we can figure it...
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of Pitch 3.
BETA PHOTO: Start of Pitch 3.
Rock Climbing Photo: Top half of Pitch 2.
BETA PHOTO: Top half of Pitch 2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of Pitch 2.
BETA PHOTO: Start of Pitch 2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of the route.
BETA PHOTO: Start of the route.

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