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Standard Route Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Penguin, The 
Standard Left Flow 
Standard Right 
Standard Route 
Standard via "Left Cave" 

Standard via "Left Cave" 


Type:  Ice, 2 pitches, 200', Grade II
Original: WI3+ [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 178
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Jan 4, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: MJ Cross leads out onto the ice right of the "...


This is simply the "variant" that climbs the left side of the main flow. In most years there is a rock "cave" on the left side of the flow, although this sometimes fills-in in really "thick" years.

In the early years ( i.e. 1970's, before the bolts were put into the cave on the right) this variant was considered pretty much the "standard" way to climb "Standard", as it offered a solid rock-belay.

P1 - Climb to the "cave" on the left. WI 3

P2 - Move out right (photo) and up the flow to the top, WI 3+ to 4- depending on conditions and where you go.


Left side of the main flow.


Usual ice screws, rock gear to back up any old pins in the cave.

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