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Tangen Towers
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
DC Boy T,S 
East Face/Upper Tangen Tower T 
Hop, Skip, & Jump T,S 
Hoppy Birthday T,S 
In Focus T 
Pictureman Crack/Lower Tangen Tower T 
South Face Right/Lower Tangen Tower T 
Standard Route/Lower Tangen Tower T 
Stay Focused T 
Tangen Tunnel route T 
Thumper S 
Unnamed Hueco 1 T 
Zacchaeus T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Standard Route/Lower Tangen Tower 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Gerry Roach and Barb Inyan, 1984??
Page Views: 94
Submitted By: George Bell on Jun 14, 2001

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Warren on the summit, with Royal Arch in the backg...

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  • Description 

    The Lower Tangen Tower is the overhanging rock you pass under on the Royal Arch Trail after passing the base of the Fourth Flatiron. Despite being near this major trail, the rock sees few ascents as it is not easy to solo up and down.

    The first few moves are the crux, which is an awkward offwidth, although you may be able to find a more elegant way to do it. Soon the difficulty eases to 4th class. You can belay on a ledge at 60', or continue left up a ramp and continue to the summit. The entire climb can be done in one 120' pitch.

    To descend, rap 40' west into the notch between the Tangen Towers. On rappel you may notice 2 bolts of some unknown route on the overhanging West Face of the Lower Tower.


    Locate a wide flaring crack on the far west side of the South Face of the Lower Tangen Tower. This crack is the leftmost of two cracks and is only about 100' off the Royal Arch Trail.


    Light rack to #3 Camalot.

    Photos of Standard Route/Lower Tangen Tower Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: I think this is the route (the left crack of the t...
    I think this is the route (the left crack of the t...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Warren face climbing the initial moves instead of ...
    Warren face climbing the initial moves instead of ...

    Comments on Standard Route/Lower Tangen Tower Add Comment
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    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jan 8, 2003

    I did this route again this morning. A #3 Camalot works well in protecting the first move. You can face climb to the right of the wide crack (see photo), but we both though this a few notches harder than 5.5.

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