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Standard Route 

Standard Route 

Type:  Alpine, Grade II
Original: Mod. Snow [details]
Page Views: 247
Submitted By: Nicholas Hunt on Apr 14, 2014  with updates from Ryan Marsters

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Standard glacier travel

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By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jun 1, 2014

Looking forward to the details on this route
By kiff
Jul 22, 2016

Zero fat, Zero latitude and Zero temps. From the hut, the climb ascends low angled rock ribs and scree to the glacier. Route generally trends up and left to Picos Jarrin, a rocky outcrop low along the faint ridge line which leads up and right (westish). Hence follows rightward slogging. There is usually an engaging crevasse/cretan maze ~100m below the summit. 5-8 hrs generally. Once, I got uber lost in fog and found a pair of mini-skis in some moraine, strange place.
By Ryan Marsters
Dec 15, 2016

SW Ridge to W slopes:

From the hut (4WD), there is an obvious rock feature above. The ascent trail follows the right side of the rock feature on gravelly ledges with light scrambling. Perhaps 1-hr. Well-traveled and cairned trail with some social trailage.

Descend on the left side of the ridge to the glacier and crampon up. The route trends up and slightly left and NE, bypassing anything difficult and never exceeding 35 degrees until just below the summit. Crevasse fall danger was never high (2013) and the route was heavily-trafficked.

A series of crevasses block final access - we generally did a big "S" to weave through, slope at approx. 45 degrees for a brief spot.

Descent: No rappels necessary. Once on the rock ridge, a faster ski scree can be had by dropping descender's right and then cutting across talus below the cliffs back to the hut.

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