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Standard Route 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 1,788
Submitted By: PKA on Sep 26, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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BETA PHOTO: Standard Route, Neat Rock


P1 5.7 Start in the obvious corner and climb up to the black patch of rock and belay from bolted anchor.
P2 5.7 Follow the crack/corner up and left to bolted anchor near a small tree on a big ledge.
P3 5.9 From the ledge head left to the corner, climb up and over the roof (fun move/crux) to easier ground and the top of the cliff. Belay from near the tree at the top of the crag.


The route starts about 20 yards from the parking area.

Walk off to the east down the sloping ramps.


Standard rack to #3 camalot

Photos of Standard Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The last stout move of the crux on Standard Route....
The last stout move of the crux on Standard Route....
Rock Climbing Photo: 1st pitch of the Standard Route.
1st pitch of the Standard Route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Lena on the final pitch of The Standard Route
Lena on the final pitch of The Standard Route

Comments on Standard Route Add Comment
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By Brian in SLC
From: Sandy, Utah
Sep 30, 2009

Wasn't this called Pigeon Shit Express or Birdshit Express or some such?
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 28, 2010

One of the few routes you can do in the Bozeman area during a sunny winter day. Great fingers, lie backs with a more stout final sequence.
By Ty Morrison-Heath
From: Bozeman, MT
Mar 24, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The roof pull is stout put takes great pro so it's not to bad.
By Kurt Prond
From: Bozeman, MT
May 7, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

You've got to take Montana ratings with a grain of salt. Back in the day, when these routes were put up, 5.10 was the hardest. So 5.9 was just one grade below, which still meant pretty hard. I guess Montanans are still a little behind the times, which may or may not be good. Anywhere else, the last pitch of this route would be called solid 5.10, maybe even 10+. There aren't very many 5.9's that pull a decent sized roof with almost nothing for feet at other destinations, even if it is bomber hand jams. A really fun route!
By Pfeifer
Apr 8, 2013

Goes in two pitches pretty easy, one to the big ledge with the tree and than a short one to the top.
By Matthew Abbott
May 24, 2013

Climbed this route over the winter but decided to do the Direct Finish. The rock quality and exposure through this finish were great! Highly recommended.
By Eli B.
Apr 10, 2016

Fun climb. Nice ledges and bolted anchors for the first two pitches. The roof pull at the end is definitely stout but very fun. Highly recommended.

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