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Penguin, The 
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Standard Route 

WI3+

   
Type:  Ice, 2 pitches, 300', Grade II
Original: WI3+ [details]
FA: S. Streibert and D. Merritt, 1971
Page Views: 6,651
Submitted By: Kris Gorny on Mar 7, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (106)
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BETA PHOTO: Standard Route. The cave with bolts can be seen to...

Description 

An incredible-looking blob of cool blue ice. Due to its size, Standard Route has plenty of options - and all seem fun. The line of least resistance goes at WI3 but some of the bulges may be steep and harder, if tackled straight on. The only downside to this awesome climb is the crowds.

Most popular variation of the Standard climbs to the right, through the right-side cave with bolts. Setting a belay in the cave, although interesting, results in 3 instead of 2 pitches, with some awkward leading just after the cave (the belayer can't see you and you need to be careful to avoid rope drag). The better way, in my opinion, is to skip the cave and lead all the way up to the top of the bulge (60m ropes). From the top of the bulge continue on easy bulges to the trees. Near the top, there's also a short WI4 curtain on the right, for those who want to add an extra kick.

Reference: "An Ice Climber's Guide to Northern New England" by S. P. Lewis & R. Wilcox

Location 

Roughly 300 yards along the tracks past the trestle. Impossible to miss.

From the top of the climb, walk right and follow the trail, past the gully on top of Dracula . The trail eventually goes down and winds back. Hike past the base of the cliff back to the start of Standard.

Protection 

Ice screws


Photos of Standard Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbers on Standard Left Flow
Climbers on Standard Left Flow
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading up the final steep pillar at the top of St...
Leading up the final steep pillar at the top of St...
Rock Climbing Photo: Standard
Standard
Rock Climbing Photo: Gus heading out the left side of the cave for P2.
Gus heading out the left side of the cave for P2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tight squeeze out the left of Standard Route cave....
Tight squeeze out the left of Standard Route cave....
Rock Climbing Photo: Standar Route, P1 right-side variation to cave.  L...
Standar Route, P1 right-side variation to cave. L...
Rock Climbing Photo: Standard Route.  Attempt at a narrow pillar for P3...
Standard Route. Attempt at a narrow pillar for P3...
Rock Climbing Photo: Standard Route.  Looking down from top of P2
Standard Route. Looking down from top of P2
Rock Climbing Photo: Tim Martel Taking his rope for a walk on Standard ...
Tim Martel Taking his rope for a walk on Standard ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Isaiah belaying me up pitch 3
Isaiah belaying me up pitch 3
Rock Climbing Photo: Leader from another party leaving the cave
Leader from another party leaving the cave
Rock Climbing Photo: Standard Route not so standard
Standard Route not so standard
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1 of Standard Route, photo by Kevin Chlad
Pitch 1 of Standard Route, photo by Kevin Chlad
Rock Climbing Photo: In the cave
In the cave
Rock Climbing Photo: Heading up 2nd pitch. Left of cave
Heading up 2nd pitch. Left of cave
Rock Climbing Photo: My good friend at the 1st belay in the cave on the...
My good friend at the 1st belay in the cave on the...
Rock Climbing Photo: Exiting cave
Exiting cave
Rock Climbing Photo: Traffic jam.  About to go up right of the cave rou...
Traffic jam. About to go up right of the cave rou...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbers on the right-hand side. The belayer is ha...
Climbers on the right-hand side. The belayer is ha...
Rock Climbing Photo: Aaron leading up P1 of Standard
Aaron leading up P1 of Standard
Rock Climbing Photo: Standard Route.  Straight up the middle - P1
Standard Route. Straight up the middle - P1
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff S. on lead
Jeff S. on lead
Rock Climbing Photo: Tim on standard...
Tim on standard...

Comments on Standard Route Add Comment
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By Adam Wilcox
From: Candia, NH
Mar 23, 2008
rating: WI3

There are two fixed anchors inside the cave. On the right side you'll find a pair of bolts with rap rings. Less obvious, on the left side are some pins which can be backed up nicely with a #1 Camalot.

I made the mistake of going straight for the bolts as soon as I saw them, when I wanted to exit the left side of the cave. Maybe you won't have to move your anchor, like I did.
By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
Jun 1, 2008
rating: WI3+

This is a great route for WI 3 climbers looking to do their first multi-pitch route. Super fun but its popular on weekends so avoid parties above you!
By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Jan 12, 2012
rating: WI3

Several lines possible here. We climbed the left side from the cave but bypassing the cave on the right looks fun(also the better option if you set the belay up at the bolts.) On the top of the climb near the left side is a fun WI4- pillar.

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