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Standard Route 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
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Page Views: 3,251
Submitted By: lee hansche on Sep 19, 2007  with updates from BPC

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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BETA PHOTO: Standard Route Pitch 1 and first half of Pitch 2

Description 

A great moderate climb with nice ledges and fun moves on good rock... What more do you want? A killer view? Its got that too... I've done it in one, two, or three pitches depending on the needs of the party... A really good choice for a fist trad lead...

Pitch 1: Start up the first pretty face on the left to a moderate right facing corner... And a large comfy belay ledge... Belay from pins and gear in a vertical crack...

Pitch 2: Traverse right about 10 Ft. and climb a juggy line heading up and slightly right to gain lower angle easier rock following a cracked corner to the top... Belay from gear or sling the large boulder...

Take in the view and have fun...

Location 

The first route you get to at the base of the cliff... Start up the face on the left to a moderate right facing corner...

At the summit find a nice trail that will lead you back to the base of the cliff...

Protection 

Normal rack...belay on gear


Photos of Standard Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from mid-way through pitch 2
Looking down from mid-way through pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: Standard Route second half of pitch 2
BETA PHOTO: Standard Route second half of pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: nicole on standard rt...
nicole on standard rt...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pins at belay ledge
BETA PHOTO: Pins at belay ledge
Rock Climbing Photo: looking down from the top of the 1st pitch in alpi...
looking down from the top of the 1st pitch in alpi...
Rock Climbing Photo: a perfect day to climb rocks :)
a perfect day to climb rocks :)
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up P1. It ends on the ledge above.
Starting up P1. It ends on the ledge above.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pointing out the route...
Pointing out the route...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1 of standard route...
Pitch 1 of standard route...
Rock Climbing Photo: my wife nicole on standard routes second pitch...
my wife nicole on standard routes second pitch...

Comments on Standard Route Add Comment
Show which comments
By bradley white
From: Bend
Jul 30, 2009

The standard way up this cliff used to go up the left facing corner opposite to Standard Route's 1st pitch variation. There were two large blocks at the top of this corner that fell out in the winter of (1988-89). This changed the climb from being climbed often to what to climb? After the corner the climb went up the bush ramp right to move back left onto rock to a belay in an alcove. The the climb went out directly right up from alcove to the top. This was an oldest climb on the cliff.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jul 9, 2010
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

This route is loads of fun! The first short pitch is fun and can be a little spicy because of a lack of protection for about 20 feet in the middle of the pitch. The first pitch could certainly be PG13 if you fall before you get protection in the wide horizontal just before the belay ledge.

With that being said DO THIS ROUTE. It is fun and a great introduction to multi-pitch. It could be stretched into one pitch but the rope drag would be terrible so I think its best to do it in two pitches.

Beautiful views almost right of the ground, the view from the first belay ledge 50 ft off the ground is so beautiful for only climbing 50 ft. DO THIS ROUTE.
By Chris Lumens
From: Merrimack, NH
Jul 22, 2013

Any good ideas on placing gear before the big horizontal crack? I was able to get a #7 nut in a little diagonal crack where there's a very small shrub (near dude's head in mountainproject.com/v/10691368... ), but it was pretty crappy.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jul 22, 2013
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Chris, there is nothing awe inspiring in that section, a few options for small nuts and small cams but the best protection for that part is to keep a cool head and punch it for the horizontal. I do remember however, getting a piece out left a foot or two before the horizontal that would have held.