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Standard Route 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
Page Views: 1,605
Submitted By: John Peterson on Mar 5, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: Traverses


This wild route climbs the arete at the left side of the main face of the Pharaoh. Unfortunately once you're up the arete things get more mundane.


From the base of the main face of Pharaoh, find a sharp arete at the left side. Climb improbably up this then escape right through some bushes on a ledge to a gully system. Belay here and then up easier ground to the top. Great photo opportunities on the arete. An excellent way to the top if you're not up for Cripple Creek.


Standard Mt. Lemmon Rack

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By Paul Davidson
Aug 12, 2008

I recall this is really a pretty good pitch.
Steep and exposed for 5.7.

I don't recall what sort of variation Steve did on this but he led out low on the first pitch somewhere and then up into the alcove.
By Steve Pulver
From: Williston, ND
Apr 13, 2010

I wouldn't call the 2nd pitch mundane; chimney/offwidth climbing is tricky for a gym climber.
By M. Shannon
Apr 1, 2017

Super fun route, loved the exposed moves stepping over the roof. Traverse isn't difficult and has decent pro for the second. Chimney above was classic chimney climbing. Opted to stay in the chimney rather than take the slab to the right at the top. This led to the wrong set of anchors...and my partner left a red 04 Metolius TCU in the upper chimney. If found please call 518-225-5706, Thanks.

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