REI Community
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alcove, The T 
Horn Torn S 
Standard Route T 

Standard Route 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,540
Submitted By: Scott Tucker on Jun 5, 2006  with updates from mikehilbert

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Rough topo of the Standard Route. An all-gear anc...


Start in chimney formed by detached giant flake. There is a bolt at the stance on top of the flake. Move right then up easy face to hanging 2-bolt belay. Chickenhead hike to top, belaying off tree*. EFR doesn't give any stars, but the wannabe alpinist in me likes the idea of a summit, so I like this route. Fun and easy.

*Check that, apparently the tree has gone AWOL.


Begins in obvious alcove/chimney formed by big flake at left end of the west side (closest to road). Descent: Walk off to the north (away from face and left) and you will find a good tree with rap slings. Drop down into gully here on a short rap then walk off north and west.


A few nuts and cams are good, slings for chickenheads, draws for one bolt and belay. Easy climbing, so expect to run it out.

Photos of Standard Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Eric Peterson leads
Eric Peterson leads
Rock Climbing Photo: Chickenheady goodness!  From second pitch lead, lo...
Chickenheady goodness! From second pitch lead, lo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nick Spriggshall topping out on the "Matterho...
Nick Spriggshall topping out on the "Matterho...

Comments on Standard Route Add Comment
Show which comments
By James DeRoussel
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 14, 2008

A fun and easy trad route with varied climbing. Mostly 5.4 or less, but expect a couple 5.6-ish moves with potential for some mild runout. A light rack with plenty of slings will do for most leaders (but a #4 Camalot protects nicely in the groove above the chimney on pitch 1, if you want to avoid a bit of runout there).

The tree up top is dead and gone. However,there is a huge boulder on the summit that can be slung with 10-12 feet of webbing.

EDIT 05-20-2012: The runout on p2 is not mild. Climbed this last month and did not enjoy the runout up to the hanging two bolt belay. Easy terrain for sure, but the fall is not inconsequential.
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 21, 2008
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

a fun way to get to the top of a cool summit. you can walk off to the left once you top out (though you'll probably want use the tree to rap the small chimney--this is a different tree from the one mentioned above).
By Adam Block
From: Tucson, AZ
May 22, 2012

Does anybody know who bolted this? I have thought about replacing the bolts at the first belay and finding a consensus on whether or not a bolt should be added to protect the runout and up top for the short rap but I wouldn't want to do anything without first talking to the f.a.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About