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Rappel Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baradur T 
Bender-Axen T 
Black Magic Woman T 
Black Quacker T 
Charadras T 
Chiboni T 
Chicken Sh*t Sandwich T 
Corner, The T 
Helm's Deep T 
Lude T 
Not So Easy Arch T 
Other Way, The T 
Quick Death T 
Rotissima Bueno T 
Standard Route T 
Storm Crow T 
Voodoo Child S 
Voodoo Child (direct start) T 
Unsorted Routes:

Standard Route 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 450'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: unknown, 1963
Page Views: 6,503
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 21, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (45)
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Looking up at the 3rd belay.

Closed to climbing March 15 - June 30 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

On the lower South face of Rap Rock, the right hand edge forms a big slabby apron. The left side of this apron forms a huge dihedral with the main wall, which is Black Quacker. Just right of Black Quacker lie the following routes, from left-to right:P1 of The Standard Route (5.5 or 5.7, OK gear), Chiboni (5.9, pin + 3 bolts), Death Or Glory (5.10X, slab) Bender Axen (5.8 cracks) and Take To your Heals (5.9X, slab).

The standard Route is climbed as follows:P1: (5.6 *) Climb up and right across a few slab moves to reach a groove/crack. Place a piece and go up the crack for perhaps 60' to a nice ledge at the base of a big pine tree, and belay here. You can climb the rest of the route or escape now, by climbing to the right between two grooves (5.2?) to reach the escape slabs, and them climb up chickenheads and horns to the summit (5.2?)

P2: (5.7, *) Climb up and right from the ledge on a set of intermittent seams, for maybe 50 feet. Step left to a right facing corner, then climb up to a ledge. From this pevious corner, you can escape right onto the East Slabs and finish to the sumit from there, if you desire to do so, or else you can continue this pitch on past siad ledge and up to another left facing corner. Climb this for another 30 feet or so to a downward pointing flake. Maneuver to the righthand side of this and up to a belay on the ledge up and left of the top of the flake.

P3-5: Finish as for Black Quacker or choose a place to escape to the right and onto the East Slabs to the summit.

Protection 

A standard set of stoppers, cams .5" to 4", small tricams + spare long slings for tying off chicken-heads and slinging horns.


Photos of Standard Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Chickenhead hiking on running belay around pitch 4
Chickenhead hiking on running belay around pitch 4
Rock Climbing Photo: Did Someone say 'Chickenheads?'  looking down on t...
Did Someone say 'Chickenheads?' looking down on t...
Rock Climbing Photo: The upper pitches of Rap Rock can be well protecte...
The upper pitches of Rap Rock can be well protecte...
Rock Climbing Photo: The wide crack on first pitch.  Not great pro.
The wide crack on first pitch. Not great pro.
Rock Climbing Photo: Beta: pitch 3 and start of pitch 4 of Standard Rou...
BETA PHOTO: Beta: pitch 3 and start of pitch 4 of Standard Rou...
Rock Climbing Photo: Beta: pitch 2 of Standard Route.
BETA PHOTO: Beta: pitch 2 of Standard Route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Beta: second half of pitch 1 of Standard Route.
BETA PHOTO: Beta: second half of pitch 1 of Standard Route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Beta: first half of pitch 1 of Standard Route.
BETA PHOTO: Beta: first half of pitch 1 of Standard Route.

Comments on Standard Route Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 11, 2016
By kBobby
From: Spokane, WA
May 11, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This is a two-star route IF you do the Bender-Axen start. I just did the Standard Route start, and it is not very interesting. B-A is much much better. The second pitch has a 1/4" SMC bolt on it right next to a flake that will easily take gear. Watch for all of the loose blocks on the leaning column on the lower part of the second pitch. Any one of them could completely ruin your belayer's day. If you happen to have a wrench, please tighten the anchor bolts at the top of pitch 3.
By James DeRoussel
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 30, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

I actually like the wide crack Standard Route start. It is a little tenuous and not great pro, but fun climbing, to me anyway. I will however, second Bobby's warning. The stack of loose blocks above the pine tree ledge are scary and should be avoided. All in all a great route.
By Jerry Cagle
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 14, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Bobby, The Standard Route is a fine line. It has a lot of variety for a route in this part of the planet. And it may not be very difficult (start with Chiboni if you need more adrenaline), but it's in an outstanding location and offers nicely fractured cracks, face, slab, chicken-head hiking. It's one of the most "Sierra-Like" routes we've got down here... Those loose blocks are well-consolidated and easy to avoid if you need to. That's just the nature of climbing a big route (ok, it's not all that big) at altitude (or all that high - 9000'?).

I second James' assessment of the wide crack start. It doesn't offer a lot of pro down low, but it's not extremely hard either...
By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Oct 4, 2010

Due to a high wind situation, after p2 we short-pitched and headed more or less straight up staying left(ish) anchoring down and right from the roof over Black Quacker p3(?). We headed up and left from there traversing under the roof then up to a ledge up and left from the giant pine tree. The traverse under the roof was good clean fun.. if you get a chance to go through there, do so. The rope drag is minimal and the gear is good but watch those loose blocks just after the roof.

Edit, ditto on James and Jerry's comments. This is was my first trip up to Rap rock and we had a great time. The goal was to get my gf some good exposure to multipitch climbing on mild ground and this was perfect. P1 has gear just where you need it. Lots of good varied climbing.

Single bd set from .3 to 3, nuts, lots of slings.
By NickMartel
From: Tucson, Arizona
Oct 5, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The move over the downward pointing flake just before the 2ed belay was 5.8. FUN ROUTE! do the Black Quacker finish from the 2ed belay.
By Sheryl Miller
From: Tucson, AZ
May 9, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

we climbed this in Nov. 2011 going up Bender Axen for the 1st pitch then the rest as Standard. What an enjoyable route, higher and higher and easier as you got more exposed.
By James DeRoussel
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 2, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Climbed this again recently after a few years, and I feel that the lower part of the second pitch warrants at least a PG-13. The protection is scarce until you reach the crack above and a fall would be unpleasant for sure. I agree that the Bender Axen start is superb.
By Brandon Baldwin
From: Sahuarita, AZ
Aug 26, 2013

On the third pitch I would reccomend belaying from some slung chicken heads at the beginning of the forth pitch instead of the hanging bolted belay. We found the hanging belay to be awkward and uncomfortable especially with two of you there trying to hang from the anchors.
By Chris Horton
From: Tucson AZ
Aug 29, 2013

^^^^^
I'm glad I'm not the only one who thinks that.
By Alex McIntyre
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 29, 2013

Why would you need both climbers to hang there for more than just a couple minutes?
By Brandon Baldwin
From: Sahuarita, AZ
Oct 4, 2013

Alex, this was the first outdoor climb for my partner so I was leading every pitch. The other pitches only took a minute or two to pass the rope/gear back and forth, but at the hanging belay it was closer to four or five minutes because it was awkward and painful. I climbed about 20 feet onto the fourth pitch and found a spot that felt much more comfortable. I really enjoyed the climb and will be doing it again with the modified belay. Also, I ended up climbing up the chicken heads on the fourth pitch to a finish near a small tree on the top and just barely had enough rope (60M) to throw a sling around the tree and setup my belay. With that finish an extra 20 feet would have really helped.
By Steve Lenhardt
Oct 15, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Climbed this route for the first time in many years yesterday. I am a solid 5.9 climber that has lead some 5.10s and 11s. As well as an AMGA instructor. To me the first two pitches are closer to a 5.9, especially the 2nd pitch. So, if you are hopping on this thinking it's a 5.6 or 7, take caution. You may be in for a big surprise. Once you get past the first two pitches however, you are home free. Another note worth mentioning is that for the last pitch, our 60m rope was barely long enough. As Brandon mentioned, had I not built the anchor good and high for the third belay, we would have been forced to improvise quite a bit. (simo-climb or turn it into a 5 pitch climb). Also worth noting, the directions say to go left past the bolt anchor and up the smooth recessed crack system and then back right towards the chicken heads. This is actually not the common way up Standard Route. More common is to head straight up from the bolts starting the chicken head frenzy from there. Then just wander up your desired chicken head line to the top. This line also landed us at the small tree Brandon mentioned, and works out quite well for walking off the rock. Hope this helps some people!
By Kari Hreinsson
Oct 11, 2016
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13

The hike in, we went on the east side (left from saddle) down and around, the trail isn't very clear at times, but mostly keeps close to the cliff. Expect some bushwhacking.

A decent route, with varied climbing. The very start of pitch 1 is a bit sketchy, will ground fall potential before traversing into the crack and reaching a bolt on its right side (crack was too flared out at the bottom to take gear).

I would definitely do as other commenters here and call the start of the second pitch PG-13 until you reach the crack, the terrain is easy enough, but has some nasty factor 2 fall potential. Moving past the downward hanging flake near the top of the pitch was burly, surely a 5.8 or 5.9 move, I would make sure to save cams #3 and/or #4 (BD) for protecting that move.

Belay above pitch 2 has two bolts in a nice saddle/crack. From there on we moved out left (bit awkward) into Black Quacker, following the crack system (as pictured with this route) up to the bolted hanging belay. Due to rope friction we belayed there, but following other commenters suggestions and moving past it into the chicken heads is probably a better option. Pitch 3 has some burly "entire-body-friction" crack moves, at least for those of us not used to that style of climbing.

From the hanging belay there are two pitches to the summit area. Just head straight for the top (5.4 probably, jugs everywhere), before unroping and scrambling down to the saddle (felt easy and safe). Happy climbing.