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Bloody Spire
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Standard Route 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Dan Doody, Craig Izett (1957)
Page Views: 1,690
Submitted By: Kevin Fons on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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BETA PHOTO: Bloody Spire and Homeward Spire from West

Description 

This route is a blast and has great exposure (maybe it is bacause it is over the asphalt parking lot or something). The underclings are a cool and the rock is clean and solid. Don't climb the route with a full parking lot (early am or pm are best).

Start on the North Side of the spire and work up the crack formed by the large block / flake and the main wall. Belay on top of the block.

Move up to the obvious horizontal flake. Undercling right placing gear and clipping fome fixed pins along the way. The hardest part psychologically are the last moves off the flake and into the large chimney. Move up high in the chimney and belay.

The next pitch is similar to the first except you are higher and more exposed. Move back left along the horizontal flake underclinging and placing gear. Work left to the crack that leads up and to the summit.

Rappel off the bolted station on the backside of the spire.

You need to pay attention to your rope line on this route as you can run into big rope drag with poor planning. Don't try to climb all the way from the block to the top as I did the first time I did the route - Heinous rope drag!

Protection 

Standard rack with a few fixed pieces along the way.


Photos of Standard Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Rick on the Standard Route
BETA PHOTO: Rick on the Standard Route

Comments on Standard Route Add Comment
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By Tradiban
Jul 22, 2007

Great route! I belayed after leading the second pitch in the lower notch just below the summit and then scrambled to the summit for a look. There are rap anchors around the corner. I believe there are also rap anchors on top. Beware of tourists when tossing the rope!
By joelhagan Hagan
From: Rapid City, SD
Oct 10, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Great route! If you want to cut some time only do the belay in the chimney and skip the suggested first on the block. Great exposure, nice to get out in October and see barely any tourists.

Somebody replaced the second pin with a bolt. The route would have been fine without it as there is a very protectable horizontal crack 1 foot above it.
By vincent L.
From: Redwood City
Jul 19, 2009

The climb can be done in one pitch very easily. Put an extra long sling on the bolt before the traverse left.
By Abandoned User
Jul 13, 2012

Can you do it one pitch with double ropes? How about rapping down to clean it? I ask because I will be climbing with my wife who may not be able to follow it up to clean it. Thanks.

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