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Standard Route 5.10 variation 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
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Submitted By: lee hansche on Jan 19, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Mid climb, following on the 5.10 variation.


I think this route should have it's own name cause its so much harder and a bit more serious than Standard's other options... I called it PG13 cause i thought it was a bit sketchy climbing over my pro above a big ledge (in my mind it was more "R") the guide i have makes no mention of sketchy climbing so perhaps i missed a protection option (but i don't think so)... With a good belayer you should be fine...

Pitch 1: Climb the original start to Standard Route to the nice big belay ledge... Belay from pins...

Pitch 2: Step left from the anchor to a "Finger Crack" which isn't exactly splitter its more like a few pods leading to face climbing... Place the highest piece you can in the "Crack" and climb some face moves above getting a bit away from your last piece before getting a good stance and more moderate climbing to a belay in a nook above...

Pitch 3: Easy climbing to the top of the cliff...


Just left of the anchor at the first belay on Standard Route...


TCUs helpful on the crux... Regular rack otherwise...

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By bradley white
From: Bend
Jul 30, 2009

You didn't miss any protection placements that I am aware of on this variation. We once upon a time, rated it the (5-9) boulder problem way to do the second pitch and it had no protection.

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