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Standard Direct 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 993
Submitted By: lee hansche on Sep 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Red line is the direct variation. Yellow line is t...

Description 

A cool variation to the standard's easy start... If you are new to leading id stick with the regular start as this one is a little less secure...

Pitch 1: Start 15 feet right of the regular standard start... Climb sloping ledges past a pin to a left facing corner... Up the corner to a ledge belay from gear or traverse left to belay from pins at the top of the regular first pitch...

Or since you are on the direct start just keep going to the top of the steep section about 100 Ft off the ground and belay from there...

Location 

15 feet right of the regular start for standard rt... climb sloping ledges to gain a left facing corner...

Protection 

Standard rack...


Comments on Standard Direct Add Comment
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By John Barkhausen
Apr 10, 2017

CONDITION REPORT 
I climbed at Artist's today and there was some rockfall that I think took out almost the whole first pitch of this. A huge block, basically everything on the right side of the corner on the first pitch has fallen. The block that fell reached almost all the way to Brass Balls, but I think that route is still intact.

Rock Climbing Photo: What used to be Standard Direct
What used to be Standard Direct
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Oct 4, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R

Did this today and did not come across any pin, which made a serious ground fall potential. there is not much gear between 6 feet off the ground and the corner so it is at least R rated without the pin, which neither myself or my partner saw.
By Ming
Jul 27, 2016
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

If feels like the block at the bottom of the left facing corner may be a little loose. It may last a few more years but I'm not sure. Be gentle with it and I think placing any pro using the block may only be mental.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 17, 2017

Holy crap that's a serious rock fall!

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