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Standard Deviation 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: FTR: Jim Neff & Ed George 1979 FL: Art Messier 1999
Page Views: 3,143
Submitted By: Kyle Wills on Jul 9, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (45)
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BETA PHOTO: Standard Deviation and Deviate Behavior.

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>


"Balancy and steep face climbing. Left or right finish option from the 3rd bolt. lLeft finish is 5.10a, right finish is 5.9"- taken from Art Messier


On the Deviation Wall with Abacab, Back to Basics, Deviate Behavior, and Kathy's Memorial.


4 bolts

Photos of Standard Deviation Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Cruxin
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave climbing through the upper part of the pitch....
Dave climbing through the upper part of the pitch....
Rock Climbing Photo: Taken from Art Messier's Guide.
Taken from Art Messier's Guide.

Comments on Standard Deviation Add Comment
Show which comments
By baronlunbeck
Dec 11, 2012

are the spinning bolts safe to top rope off of?
By dholte
From: South San Francisco, CA
Feb 17, 2013

The spinning bolts are at the top of Standard Deviation, I didn't use them, but they are probably ok. I used the bolts for Deviate Behavior, just be aware you'll take a small swing if you fall near the bottom.
By Jason Kim
From: Encinitas, CA
Jun 16, 2013

The terrible landing and committing moves down low make for one intimidating lead! Felt stiff for .10b.
By Mannamedstan Smith
From: Carpinteria, CA
Oct 9, 2013

Stiff for a 10b lead, I agree, especially the move getting to the center bolt shared with Deviate Behavior.
By BJ Cook
From: San Diego, California
Apr 6, 2015

I echo the sentiment of the group. 5.10b sounds too low. This was as difficult as some 5.11s up at El Cajon mountain.
By Hand.jammin
Feb 10, 2016

Its all there, climb goes at 10b/c just sustained the whole way... Loose jug just over the roof on the left side finish (1 foot below the bolt and slightly left)
By J Sundstrom
From: San Diego, CA
Mar 12, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Having a .75 at the horizontal crack at the left finish is helpful to avoid a nasty fall getting to the last bolt.

[EDIT]: I noticed the other day in the 2nd edition of Kennedy and Hubbard's guide, this gets .10d. So maybe it is sandbagged after all...
By Scotty Dusek
From: San Diego
Jul 12, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Great crimps and balance moves. Not harder than 5.10b but it helps to be tall. I start directly under the first bolt, if you stray left to start it is easier but less fun. The crux is above the second bolt and well protected, a fall before that could be ugly. If doing the left variation (more fun) bring a .75 or 1 Camalot as it is quite runout by the time you reach the 4th bolt. The jugs above the horizontal crack (left variation) are loose so be careful cranking on them too hard. Anchor bolts spin and are a bit rusty but seem fine top-roping.

It is a committing lead that should only be attempted by solid leaders at the grade. Try to stay true to the route, wandering to either side yields easier ground.
By Rich Welker
From: Cardiff, Ca
Jul 26, 2017
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Definitely harder than a 10b. Especially compared to the 10b to right (monkey dance).
And i agree with SD guidebook 10d, sounds about right.

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