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Lower Grotto Wall
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Stand By Your Van T,S 
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Stand By Your Van 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Perkins and Beidleman
Page Views: 1,155
Submitted By: Lynn S on Aug 29, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Stemming for self preservation.

Description 

Nice, mixed gear route on the upper right side of the Grotto Wall. Starts out with the business past two bolts, steeper than it appears for the first few moves. Pull over the slight bulge and onto a slab with two more bolts then gear up to the anchor.

Hint if you want it, as you pull over the steep start keep looking left for a nice jug. To the right is okay, but more slopers and crusty rock.

Location 

Far right side of the Grotto Wall. The first two bolts are obvious, there is also a boulder laying right near the start. Star Spangled Dangle .12a is just left of this route.

Protection 

4 bolts, some gear, yelllow Alien to a #1 Camalot. Fat chain at the anchor.


Photos of Stand By Your Van Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting moves before the grease rail.
Starting moves before the grease rail.

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By D-Storm
Jul 10, 2017
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I found this route to be steeper and harder than it looks. The cruxes were classic Indy funk: deciphering the path of least resistance with off-balance movement through water-polished grooves and roofs. There is a hidden hold at the first crux that keeps the rating at 10b. I was very happy to have .3 (small blue) Camalot for the slab crux, though a nut would likely work as well.

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