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Stallone Bone 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 220'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Tom Wezwick and Matt Gray, 1996
Page Views: 407
Submitted By: JimmyK on May 12, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: 1st Pitch of Stallone Bone. Adam Wilson belaying.

Description 

P1 - 15 feet left of main dihedral. Large overhang on the right side of headwall. Follow bolts to chains to the left of the large overhang (100 ft).
P2 - (crux) Hand traverse right above roof and unto easier slab/ramp system. This pitch is said to have a committing and exposed pull.
P3 - Straight up, then an overhang to anchors.

Location 

15 feet right of Moist Hoist, 15 feet left of the main dihedral.

Protection 

Quickdraws. Optional gear placement on P2.


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By tom wezwick
Oct 12, 2010

I will tell you this............On pitch two...if you lead it, the traverse is the crux I would say.....but beware........if you second it when you unclip that nice bolt.......you are looking at well you will see..........regards Tom Wezwick
By Ben Alford
Aug 12, 2013

Beware of a big and very loose rock in the vicinity of the first pitch's penultimate clip (the last bolt before the chains). If this thing breaks free, your belayer is in big trouble.

Also, inferring from the pattern change and length of my rope, it looked to us like the first pitch was around 110 or 115 feet -- a little longer than is stated in the above description.

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