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Stalemate 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Larry Coats, Steve Grossman, mid 80's.
Page Views: 683
Submitted By: Larry Coats on Oct 28, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Climbing restricted due to tourist safety MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climbs the beautiful short corner to the right of Gambit. Fun stemming up the corner leads to the off-balance fat fingers crux pulling the overhang above. (Note: we originally rated the crux .11-, but Toula downrated it in his guidebook. Having repeated it several times over the years, I'm not totally sure the downrating is accurate).

Protection 

Mostly smaller cams, #1 Friends or purple Camalots for the crux.


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By Paul Davidson
Oct 30, 2008

I agree with Larry, call it a soft 11 if you want.
Tim had a tendency to down rate stuff.
His ratings come more from a repeat ascent, sport mentality than an on sight one.

This is an excellent stiff climb.
The top gets right in your face.

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