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Stairway to Stem 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Sam Boyce, Andrew Nelson Feb, 2015
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,401
Submitted By: Sam Boyce on May 20, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: view from the bottom of the route

Warning: possible ongoing rockfall after major rockfall event. MORE INFO >>>


Located to climber's right of web slinger. After heading down the fixed line below the gun show slab, keep going down and you'll be at the base of web slinger, from there keep going climber's right until the obvious chimney is visible (a bolt should be visible from the ground). The route starts on some lower angle blocky terrain that is probably dirty and often wet (don't let this discourage you as the route itself stays fairly clean and dry).
P1- Head up the 4th class ramp the the base of the chimney (some may choose to solo this). Stem straight up, top out left to gain the P1 anchors of "baby steps", top out right to continue on stairway. Optional chainless belay right off the top-out. Continue or stop here to belay (for communication). 5.9 ***
P2- Traverse rightward until the first bolt is reached. Face climb up a couple airy bulges to easier climbing that leads straight to the anchor. 5.9 ***

Descent: Rap to the P1 anchors of dislocated/relocated then to the ground (a 70 reaches the ground with rope stretch but has pretty bad rope pull drag).


just draws, i was able to climb and rap with a 50 meter rope (using both anchors).

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Rock Climbing Photo: the "stairway"
the "stairway"

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By mhagny
Aug 24, 2016

The stemming is interesting, but overall it's really not worth the hassle to climb this route. There's much better stuff at this crag. (apologies to the route setter -- keep trying!)

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