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Stairway to Heaven
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Stairway to Heaven  

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,080
Submitted By: Brian Hestetune on Jul 31, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Scott sticking his head in what apparently is the ...


The crux comes early with the overhanging hand crack. Once you get past this pull yourself into the batshit .8 or so squeeze chimney. There is an old bolt (no hanger) somewhere in there. It is a pretty cool position in this part as there is nothing beneath you. The 'stairway' part is fairly mellow at .8 or .9. Here we chose to keep traversing, but you should probably pull the roof. It looks much harder and more fun. Belay and walk off or down-climb to the chain anchors below.

Note: We might've done a variation to the tradition route by traversing under the final roof. It seemed like the natural line at the time.

Overall, it is a fun worthwhile climb. Be warned, this route will have more loose rock than its neighbors.


Very obvious stairway crack.


There is a manky bolt (no hanger) in the chimney and bolt for an anchor at the belay on top. Bring doubles of your widest, although protection in the chimney is mostly psychological. You can get a great #2 at the top of the chimney.

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By matt evans
From: salt lake city, UT
Sep 2, 2013

There is now a shiny new bolted route that starts right and then joins the stairway crack. Anybody know its rating?
By Dylan Fadgen
Nov 9, 2014

/u/matt evans- My group's consensus is 5.9.
By goingUp
From: over here
Jun 20, 2017

Super unique climb. Limestone typically doesnt fracture this way. interesting jams, and face moves through the roof. Amazing exposure in the chimney and just an all around beautiful line.

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