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Dem Bones Wall
Routes Sorted
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Clean Cut  S 
Procedure, The S 
Staircase S 

Staircase 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: M. Nad
Page Views: 58
Submitted By: kenr on Feb 19, 2016

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Crawdad Canyon is private property. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Four-fifths of this route is a fun "stairway" of positive footholds around 5.5 - 5.7 difficulty. But the middle "flight" is missing some positive steps -- simultaneous with non-positive hand-holds.

Route: Follow the bolts going diagonal Left-ward the whole way.

. (If some of the non-Lead climbers in the party were hoping to find interesting climbing only at difficulty 5.7 or less, just haul or aid them through the much harder crux section quickly, so they can enjoy the rest).

Variation: There is an unprotected crack (difficulty in the 5.11 range?) between the start of Staircase and the start of the bolt-protected corner crack to its left. Could be top-roped from the Staircase top anchor bolts, with a directional on one of middle bolts of the Staircase route.

Location 

Under a large left-facing corner that trends left up the wall. The right-most bolted line in the Dem Bones area. About 15-20 feet right from the obvious corner crack bolt-protected with a white rectangle name (unreadable as of 2016) below it.

Protection 

7 bolts to two-bolt anchor (with a single small rappel ring as of 2016).

Note that this whole route is less than vertical, so any place a leader falls, they might hit something -- and if they hit something they might get hurt.
Note especially that there is a significant ledge close underneath the crux sequence.


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