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Staircase to Nowhere 

Hueco: V0- Font: 4-

Type:  Boulder, 13'
Original:  Hueco: V0- Font: 4- [details]
FA: Daniel Kenyon and Ben Comin
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 140
Submitted By: Ben Comin on Mar 18, 2016

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A closer look at the holds for "Staircase to ...


Start out just right of "Ain't No Thang" at the bottom of the natural staircase. You will see a really clear side pull off to your right and a jug that looks like part of a stylized mountain range (if you use some imagination). Place your right hand on the sidepull and your left hand on the "hump" of the mountain range. Place your right foot turned inward (this is important) on the only little wavy vertical bacon on the rock that it looks like it might hold about ten to twelve inches up from the ground. The tricky part of this climb is the first few super-technical moves that will require speed because your foot placement will not hold for long. Place your weight on that right foot and as your body moves up take your right hand off of that sidepull and reach up for the palm smear directly above your head. As you pull that with some friction move your left foot out to the wavy bacon to your left and stand up enough to tuck your toes on your right foot into that sweet little pocket (you'll know the one). As you do transition your right hand up onto the pinch above your head to the right a little and your left hand to the pocket just to the left of the pinch. You'll have to pull that pocket a little bit like and undercling (almost). Pull yourself up a bit and slap the moss on the top with whatever hand you can be free of for a few precious moments. You're done! Now go grab a beer you sexy beast. You've earned it.


Directly to the right of "Ain't No Thang" at the bottom of the natural staircase (hence the name).


A crash pad and at least one spotter.

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Rock Climbing Photo: Topo outlined in yellow. Follow the underclung hol...
Topo outlined in yellow. Follow the underclung hol...

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