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Stained Glass Ceiling 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Chris Smith 5/15
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 583
Submitted By: SmithBro on May 29, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

Climb the first pitch of Tour De Toad, or White Toad to the large ledge belay. Boulder directly above the anchor, passing 2 roofs to a stance. Rest up for the ceiling, which is best approached from the left side of the block to a jug over the lip, and then a crux pop.

Location 

Between the second pitches of Dead Toad, and White Toad

Protection 

6 bolts


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By SmithBro
From: North Wilmot, New Hampshire
May 29, 2015

Please help me rate this climb. It might be height dependent.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
May 29, 2015

I have always looked at this, going to have to get out and check it out!
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 6, 2015

I had been thinking about this line as well, I'll be glad to give it a try at some point.
By ward smith
May 22, 2016
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Did it on toprope, second try, did not flash...seems pretty hard, 11d?
By KCraig
From: Lebanon, NH
May 23, 2016

I was going to offer 11c, but would concede that the roof section is probably harder than the roof on Sally's Alley, so 11d may be fair. It's definitely harder if short. (I'm 6' and +2 ape.) This route would be an extremely tough onsight at the grade (11+). Even with the holds chalked, it packs a punch!
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Nov 13, 2016
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

This was a lot harder than it looked. It's on you right when you leave the anchor. I even used a knee bar to get to the lip above the upper roof. 11c minimum, IMHO.