REI Community
Stackpole and Lydstep
Select Area...
Mother Carey's Kitchen 
Mowing Word 

Stackpole and Lydstep Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 51.6453, -4.85075 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 712
Administrators: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nick Russell on Apr 14, 2014
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

The most Easterly region of the Pembrokeshire coastline, covering from Broad Haven to Tenby. The rock is uniformly excellent (well, it's Pembroke: what do you expect?), as are the routes.

Crags such as Mother Carey's Kitchen and Mowing Word are truly world-class, featuring steep, intimidating climbing on some inspiring lines. That's not to say everything is hard: there are many routes of easier grade (and angle), consistently as good, and offering the same sea-cliff experience.

Add to this the beautiful coastal environment, with perfect sandy beaches and pristine coves, and you will want to return again and again. After all, with over 1000 routes in the latest definitive guide, you're not going to run out of rock to climb!

As with the rest of Pembroke, the rock is limestone. For the most part it is very solid, having taken thousands of years of the worst the sea can throw at it, the loose bits are long gone! Just beware of some unstable blocks on the topouts (out of reach of the sea). The friction is great, as there is not enough traffic to polish the routes, and the coastal environment seems to keep the surface rough. Take a comprehensive set of nuts to protect most of the routes.

Getting There 

For areas around Stackpole, approach from Pembroke along the B4319, signposted towards MOD Castlemartin/Castlemartin Range/Bosherton. Turn left off this towards Bosherton, and then left again just after passing the St. Govans Inn. Follow this road to the National Trust car park at the end. The climbing areas are approached from here by walking East along the Coast path.

Most of the areas at the Lydstep end are approached from the A4139 East from Pembroke, or the A478 to Tenby then A4319 West.

Climbing Season

For the United Kingdom area.

Weather station 8.1 miles from here

6 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Stackpole and Lydstep
Rock Climbing Photo: Ab set-up on Diedre Sud

Diedre Sud 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  Europe : United Kingdom : ... : Mowing Word
The soaring central corner is tackled at a surprisingly amenable grade by this fantastic route. The line is unmistakeable, the rock is good, and you get all the atmosphere of the cliff's harder offerings.From tidal ledges, start up the corner, mainly on the left wall, on huge holds and with plentiful protection to a series of ledges at about 15m. Optional belay on the more spacious of these.Continue up the steepening corner, making use of the crack in the left wall and a variety of jamming and s...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Comments on Stackpole and Lydstep Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About