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Stackpole and Lydstep
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Mother Carey's Kitchen 
Mowing Word 

Stackpole and Lydstep Rock Climbing 


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Location: 51.6453, -4.85075 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 571
Administrators: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nick Russell on Apr 14, 2014
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Thursday

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Description 

The most Easterly region of the Pembrokeshire coastline, covering from Broad Haven to Tenby. The rock is uniformly excellent (well, it's Pembroke: what do you expect?), as are the routes.

Crags such as Mother Carey's Kitchen and Mowing Word are truly world-class, featuring steep, intimidating climbing on some inspiring lines. That's not to say everything is hard: there are many routes of easier grade (and angle), consistently as good, and offering the same sea-cliff experience.

Add to this the beautiful coastal environment, with perfect sandy beaches and pristine coves, and you will want to return again and again. After all, with over 1000 routes in the latest definitive guide, you're not going to run out of rock to climb!

As with the rest of Pembroke, the rock is limestone. For the most part it is very solid, having taken thousands of years of the worst the sea can throw at it, the loose bits are long gone! Just beware of some unstable blocks on the topouts (out of reach of the sea). The friction is great, as there is not enough traffic to polish the routes, and the coastal environment seems to keep the surface rough. Take a comprehensive set of nuts to protect most of the routes.

Getting There 

For areas around Stackpole, approach from Pembroke along the B4319, signposted towards MOD Castlemartin/Castlemartin Range/Bosherton. Turn left off this towards Bosherton, and then left again just after passing the St. Govans Inn. Follow this road to the National Trust car park at the end. The climbing areas are approached from here by walking East along the Coast path.

Most of the areas at the Lydstep end are approached from the A4139 East from Pembroke, or the A478 to Tenby then A4319 West.

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.1 miles from here

6 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Stackpole and Lydstep
Rock Climbing Photo: Jo contemplates how to reach the base of P1

Threadneedle Street 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a  Europe : United Kingdom : ... : Mother Carey's Kitchen
A worthy adventure for climbers of any grade, this climb gets you into some wild places and spectacular positions! P1) (15 m) Start in the very back of a sea cave evidently formed along a fault plane, and climb the steep corner on its left side. Near the top of the left wall step left around the corner and belay at a stance (thread).P2) (7 m) From the belay traverse left out of the cave on the world's biggest jug rail. Step further left onto the face and climb a few meters up...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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