A Moore's Wall classic and a good route for those breaking into the harder grades. Quite a bit of character- a boulder problem start, overhanging jams and face climbing (crux, well-protected), and an amazing if somewhat runout 5.8 arete to the anchor.
The route is in the Amphitheater directly across from Quaker State. It is the obvious crack leading up to a blunt arete. Start around the corner to the right of the crack.
Nuts, cams up to a number 2 camalot- bring runners for the initial traverse to reduce drag after you get around the corner. Bomber anchors at the top- fixed nuts with cables and rings.
Crux move (one way to do it)
Placing pro before turning the corner.
By Alexander Blum
From: Charlotte, NC
Sep 26, 2010
bring a number three camalot
By Robert Hutchins
Dec 21, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
I highly recommend against carrying a #3 Camalot as it adds unnecessary weight on a steep climb, and blocks the crux hand-jam. There is a great #2 Friend sized placement just below this and an opportunity for stoppers higher, if you want trade pump for overhead gear before you pull the crux. A climber with 5.10 crack skills will be much happier leaving the hand-jam free.