St. Pauli Girl
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BETA PHOTO: St. Pauli Girl ascends the chimney to wide crack i...
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
This route starts the same as Charlie's Pillar but instead of continuing up along the flake to climbers left, chimney the other way out towards Neat, then ascend the wide crack that forms the right side of the pillar up and over to the Charlie's Pillar anchor station. The route is better than it looks, and requires a variety of wide techniques in a short climb. Protection is good with off-the-shelf pro.
Just left of Neat, start as for Charlie's Pillar but take the wide crack on the right side of the pillar up and over to the Charlie's Pillar anchors.
This is one of those rare IC climbs where a rack of singles will suffice. I used singles from #0.4 to #6 BD C4 with a runner or two to extend a couple of cams. Bolted rap station on the other side of the final pinnacle.
BETA PHOTO: Ian Hey following St. Pauli Girl