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Optimator T 
Pat's Blue Ribbon T 
Ram Implosion Wing T 
Road Soda T 
Sardikar T 
Season of the Worm, The T 
Soul Fire T 
St. Pauli Girl T 
Two Scoops T 
Unknown T 
Unnamed 11+ T 
Unsorted Routes:

St. Pauli Girl 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Yoav Altman, Ilona Barash, Ian Hey
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 869
Submitted By: Crotch Robbins on Mar 27, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: St. Pauli Girl ascends the chimney to wide crack i...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route starts the same as Charlie's Pillar but instead of continuing up along the flake to climbers left, chimney the other way out towards Neat, then ascend the wide crack that forms the right side of the pillar up and over to the Charlie's Pillar anchor station. The route is better than it looks, and requires a variety of wide techniques in a short climb. Protection is good with off-the-shelf pro.

Location 

Just left of Neat, start as for Charlie's Pillar but take the wide crack on the right side of the pillar up and over to the Charlie's Pillar anchors.

Protection 

This is one of those rare IC climbs where a rack of singles will suffice. I used singles from #0.4 to #6 BD C4 with a runner or two to extend a couple of cams. Bolted rap station on the other side of the final pinnacle.


Photos of St. Pauli Girl Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ian Hey following St. Pauli Girl
BETA PHOTO: Ian Hey following St. Pauli Girl

Comments on St. Pauli Girl Add Comment
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By Daniel Galhardo
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 17, 2017

This route (chimney, then coming to outside) is super dirty with lots of debris in the crack near the top that will fall if disturbed . Don't run a top rope and probably best to not have a second follow. Also, belayer is better off deep inside cave. Wear a helmet too!
We climbed yesterday, tons of sand came down when rope disturbed it, then a rock about 1/4lb hit my partner smack on her helmet.
Also, anchor is two pounded in pitons. You can back it up with a #5, possibly sling a rock.
Be aware! I'm staying away.

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