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St Patrick's Buttress

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St Patrick's Buttress Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Crimper E6 on Oct 30, 2012
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This major cliff dominates the north side of Landing Craft Boy. The. There are two main faces divided centrally by a long, open-book corner. The block-streaked southern face is smooth and open and provides a wealth of quality climbing. North of the long corner the cliff swings round to the west and is pierced by a number of impressive, overhanging groove and crocklines: the Wall of Grooves. To the north is a south-facing, diamond-shaped wall: Matt Block Wall.

The cliff is tidal in the vicinity of the central corner, routes on its flanks are generally unaffected if the appropriate abseil point is chosen or the first pitches omitted. The whole cliff becomes accessible below mid tide.

Getting There 

At plateau level and approximately 500 metres north of the Old Light and 150 metres south of the Battery descent path is a prominent Iorge outcrop. Descend the fern-covered slopes below the outcrop to reach a cluster of Iorge boulders lining the rim of the cliff-top; from here a 60-metre abseil leads down the south face to the foot of the cliff. A time-consuming, low-tide boulder-hop can also be mode from the foot of First Buttress North.

Climbing Season

For the South West area.

Weather station 13.1 miles from here

4 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For St Patrick's Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: tuffett

Destiny 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b  Europe : United Kingdom : ... : St Patrick's Buttress
The rightward-slanting crackline in the headwall. Protection is excellent and the climbing is sustained. Considered by Littlejohn to be his proudest crack climb at the time, and the hardest route on the island!P1, 29m, 4b.Starting directly beneath the left end of the crack, climb a groove (some suspect rock) then the slab above to a good belay beneath the crack. Often omitted, especially at high tide by abseiling in direct to this stance.P2, 30m, 5c.This is the main event! Set off up the slab ai...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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