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SSE Ridge + SSE Groove T 

SSE Ridge + SSE Groove 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c R

   
Type:  Trad, 700'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c R [details]
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Submitted By: kenr on Jun 8, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: high on Calico Peak - above SSE Ridge - seen from ...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Lots of interesting climbing in a variety of situations (much on ridges).

The two sections of more difficult climbing are separated by a (not very lone) hiking section.

Fits well into a "grand traverse" of the Calico Ridges S to N.
Or a less-long ridge traverse from the 2nd Pull-Out parking: first hike/scramble up to "South Pass", next traverse Red Book Point summit and ridges from S to N to reach "Middle Pass", then SSE Ridge + SSE Groove to Calico Peak, and descend SE Gully and back to 2PO parking.

route:
Climb the ridge (much slabby 4th class, with a 5.4 section higher) to the top of a tower (N36.1581 W115.4372) with a chasm behind it. Down-climb delicately into the chasm then traverse Left to another ridge. Up that to another high point (N36.1584 W115.4375). W into a gully, and NNW up the gully about 250 ft (75 meters). Around (N36.1591 W115.4380) turn right and go NE about 100 ft (30m) across an easy wide gully (the SouthEast gully route). Then up a ramp diagonal right to the base of a chimney (N36.1593 W115.4377). Up the chimney and N up a groove to another high point on the Calico ridge, then N up to a short overhanging groove (5.6-5.7) to pop up onto the South end (N36.1596 W115.4379) of the Calico Peak summit ridge. Ridge lovers can continue another 400 ft (120m) to the North end of the summit ridge (N36.1606 W115.4386).

descent:
Finding the SouthEast Gully route works nicely to get back down to Middle Pass and then to 2nd Pull-Out parking.

warning: Many loose rocks and weak breakable hand- and foot-holds on and around this route - (even when the rock plenty dry). The rock becomes especially weak for a couple of days after significant rain or snow, so holds are even more likely to break off.

Location 

From the "Second Pull-Out" parking (N36.1518 W115.4374) on the Red River Scenic Loop road, hike about 300 ft N on trail descending, at junction sharp Right down 130 ft E into wash. Next about 300 ft N without obvious trail, along left (W) side of wash, and NNE 250ft downward into center of wash (N36.1549 W115.4365). Into long uphill with some scrambling sections and sometimes vegetation to avoid, would be about 1000 ft N to reach the "Middle Pass" (N36.1581 W115.4368) ...
But about 170 ft before reaching the top of the gully, see a wide drainage above left, with a ridge forming the right side of that drainage. Get over to the bottom of the ridge, around (N36.1576 W115.4371).

From Calico Basin parking:
Middle Pass can also be reached from the SE, starting from parking in Calico Basin (outside the Scenic Loop road) -- but much longer, with a little higher difficulty and lots more quantity of scrambling/climbing ...
First up to the "Middle Sand Flat" (GPS lat long approx N36.1577 W115.4354).-.(elevation 4325 ft /1320m), then about 400 ft WNW in a narrow gully.

See directions on the Calico Peaks area description page (under the Pass crossings section).

Protection 

Protection for trad leading is unknown.

No fixed hardware for anchor or intermediate protection.


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