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Prairie Squid Wall
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Squids in Blue 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Chris Miller
Page Views: 26
Submitted By: Bill Olszewski on Sep 17, 2008

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Description 

This is predominantly a face climb on plates, with a crack for pro. Start left of the block that sits at the base of the wall (crawl under or climb over). Follow the right-leaning crack to a horizontal, then up left along another crack until it runs out. Climb up and right to the top rope anchor. It is best to pass the anchor and climb the roof above (fun, maybe 5.7) then walk to a crack system to set up a gear anchor. Although you can clip the bolts for a top rope, you will still need to lead past the roof and bring up a second, in order to clean the draws, unless you choose to exit right along an unprotected ledge. Walk to the right (south) to descend and turn right at the end of the wall to return to the base.

Protection 

gear to 3", gear anchor


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