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Unsorted Routes:

Squid Vicious 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Jim Thornburg 1995 (Harrison Dekker TR 1988)
Page Views: 254
Submitted By: Vlad S on Nov 14, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Golden hour at the beach


Pretty nice route if you can manage to find it in dry condition. Since it starts on the lowest point on the rock, this one is very tide dependent and the starting holds are often damp. Either stick clip the high first bolt or lower from Sex Porpoises to preclip it. Awkward crux at the first bolt is followed by a great knee-bar rest and a huge deadpoint huck caps off the difficulties between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. 5.11+ jugs take you to the top through the last two bolts shared with S.P.

Look for a low surf day with tide level below 1 ft and sun to dry out the holds from spray and you'll have fun on it. Otherwise, not even worth trying it.


SW corner of the rock starting in the water most days


5 bolts

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