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Squeezing The Lemmon 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Scott Ayers, Mark Hathaway, Adam Rose, & Jay Ladin (1988)
Season: Morning Shade Until 1pm
Page Views: 365
Submitted By: Hendrixson on Oct 31, 2014

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A rarely climbed route that has the novelty of sharing its name with the guidebook. Start from a precarious and potentially height-dependent fixed log and lemon-like pinch. Recite the mantra that a weighted foot never slips and launch into a series of blind edges and sidepulls. At the third bolt the route eases as the face becomes less-than-vertical. Delicately clip two more bolts before reaching the chains. The difficulty significantly eases after a reconnaissance run.

Squeezing The Lemmon surpassed my expectations with fabulous sequences. Unfortunately the juice runs dry all to fast, leaving one thirsty for more.


Squeezing The Lemmon is on the east face of the Goosehead. Devil's Pitchfork is to the left and Seamingly is to the right. Squeezing The Lemmon is the only fully bolted line in the vicinity.


5 bolts to chain anchors.

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