REI Community
Little Wing Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Andy Devine T 
He Can't Shout, Don't Hear You T 
Honor thy Father T 
L.D. Getaway T 
Leisure Time T 
Little Wing T 
Riddler, The T 
Scuz Ball T 
Squeeze-n-Tease T 

Squeeze-n-Tease 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Rick Cashner and Angi Morales (Sept '77)
Page Views: 244
Submitted By: Bryan G on Feb 8, 2011

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Scuz Ball, Squeeze-n-Tease, L.D. Getaway, and Andy Devine are located (in that order, from left to right) on an unnamed cliff a couple hundred feet uphill and west of the main Little Wing formation. All of these routes are of mediocre quality, usually featuring some good climbing mixed with some not-so-good climbing. If you want a cliff with sunny moderates and zero crowds, this isn't a bad choice. There are rap slings on a tree above Andy Devine, which is the easiest way to descend.
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Some 3rd class scrambling is required to reach the slabby ledge below this route. Start up the low angle corner with a hand crack to reach the steeper headwall. The fist crack above is blocked by a flake protruding from the right. Getting around this is the crux. Be gentle with the flake. From here it's a 5.6 offwidth to the top. It is also possible to escape right if you don't have a big cam to protect the offwidth.

Protection 

Pro to 6"


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