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Squeeze My Lemon 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Victor Lawson/Shadow Ayala
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,016
Submitted By: Shadow Ayala on May 11, 2011

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the second pitch

Description 

You can't miss this one. 4th class scrambling leads to the base of a massive flaring chimney in the middle of the wall. Climb the dingy, crumbly beginning to the base of the chimney. Clip the rouge bolt, then squeeze and squirm your way up the amazing black chimney protecting any chance you get. Gear placements are sparse and creative. Build a gear anchor once you reach the alcove with the short overhanging roof crack just above your head. Plug as much gear in the crack as you can from your tippy toes, raise your psych level, and fire the strenuous roof crack. *(Attentive belay is key here, especially for the second.) Pull around the corner at the lip of the roof and soak up the wild exposure as you head for the slab. Climbed from the ground up. Very Yosemite-esque.

Location 

the massive chimney in the middle of the wall.

Protection 

Gear to 3", 1 bolt, nuts and small cams useful, extra long slings for chock stones.
Gear anchor (2x3",1x2"). Second pitch has bolted anchor.
One 70m rope. Rap to 'Levee' anchors then rap again.
Bring a crashpad for the second pitch.


Photos of Squeeze My Lemon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A better view of the roof crack.
A better view of the roof crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: sessing
sessing
Rock Climbing Photo: starting the chimney
starting the chimney

Comments on Squeeze My Lemon Add Comment
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By Victor Lawson
From: Bishop, CA
May 11, 2011
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

It all began with an urge...and a sick looking maw...
Scrambled up to the base...started up the route proper w/o even a helmet OR nut-tool...got in that black smooth chimney and decided I didn't want to hit the ground if I slid out of it's dusty clutches...
So, I wedged myself in the chimney, best I could and went off belay while Shadow went and got the drill...in went a bolt, then after lowering the drill back down, off I went into the squeeze, and up and up to a sick belay on a giant chockstone, to bring Shadow up...ROOF CRACK! A few falls at first...then finally jamming and magic got me to the lip...now on easy ground, but w/ no gear, celebratory stickiness got me to a tree...I am psyched.
By Victor Lawson
From: Bishop, CA
May 31, 2011
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Update! Bolted anchors now up on top of Squeeze my Lemon! No need to go to the tree anymore, one rope gets you down w/ two raps (rap to When the Levee Breaks anchor). I'm pretty sure a 60m would work...it sure seemed like there was enuf tail left in my 70, but i'm not CERTAIN....a 60m deff. works when rapping When the Levee Breaks if you head left to the scrambly ledges at the base of Squeeze my Lemon.

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