|Original:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]|
|Submitted By:||Jason Halladay on Apr 3, 2007|
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By George Perkins
From: The Dungeon, NM
Jan 22, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
There are 2 crack climbs right of Bosker Boozeroos. Both of these cracks have sections of wide crack near their start.
The 1st crack just right of Boozeroos is an open book, about 5.8, not listed in the guides. This would be between #1 and #2 in the Jett/Samet topo below.
The 2nd crack to the right is the 5.10+ climb marked as "Squeeze Chimney 5.10+" in the guidebooks. It is a splitter slot-to-smaller-crack on the smooth face right of the corner. This crack angles left to the corner near the top. Jemez Rock describes it similarly. This line is marked as #2 in the Jett/Samet guide topo, copied below.
Both climbs can be done from the same anchor.
By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 24, 2011
|Good information, George. I suspect the real "Squeeze Chimney" route is the 5.8 corner route. I've changed the rating here on this route to 5.8 to clear up any confusion. "Boy What Nice Fellows" is apparently the lightning-bolt crack you describe as 10+ in your comment here but I don't think it's really 11b...|