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South/East side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.8 Crack T 
Bosker Boozeroo S 
Box Overhang Left T,TR 
Box Overhang Right T,TR 
Boy What Assholes (You Guys Turned Out to Be) S 
Boy What Nice Fellows T 
Captain Smarmbag T,TR 
Cholla Crack T,TR 
Cholla Wall T,TR 
Dave's Face (a.k.a. Sale at Mervyn's) S,TR 
Donde Estan Mis Pantalones S,TR 
Double Vision / Ream Dream S,TR 
Face Off S,TR 
Headwall Crack Left T,TR 
Headwall Crack Right T,TR 
Holy Crack T,TR 
Holy Wall S,TR 
Len's Roof T,TR 
M.C. Epic T,TR 
Narcissistic Dream T,TR 
Nice Guys Finish Last S 
No Exit S,TR 
On Beyond Zebra S,TR 
Overture TR 
Paul's Boutique S 
Polly's Crack T,TR 
RDD Crack T,TR 
Robot City S 
Route 21 T,TR 
Sensuous S T,TR 
Squeeze Chimney T 
Thief in Time S,TR 
Thorazine Dream S,TR 
Unknown T,TR 
Way Beyond Zebra S,TR 

Squeeze Chimney 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

Type:  Trad, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
Season: year round
Page Views: 762
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Apr 3, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Daniel A. Heading up the Squeeze Chimney


The obvious corner route to the right of Bosker. A little dirty and loose down low but decent up higher.


This is the crack/chimney just right of Bosker Boozeroo. Shown as route number 2 on the Overlook route topo photo.


Gear to number 2 and 3 camalots to bolted anchor.

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By George Perkins
From: The Dungeon, NM
Jan 22, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

There are 2 crack climbs right of Bosker Boozeroos. Both of these cracks have sections of wide crack near their start.
The 1st crack just right of Boozeroos is an open book, about 5.8, not listed in the guides. This would be between #1 and #2 in the Jett/Samet topo below.
The 2nd crack to the right is the 5.10+ climb marked as "Squeeze Chimney 5.10+" in the guidebooks. It is a splitter slot-to-smaller-crack on the smooth face right of the corner. This crack angles left to the corner near the top. Jemez Rock describes it similarly. This line is marked as #2 in the Jett/Samet guide topo, copied below.
Both climbs can be done from the same anchor.
Rock Climbing Photo: overlook
By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 24, 2011

Good information, George. I suspect the real "Squeeze Chimney" route is the 5.8 corner route. I've changed the rating here on this route to 5.8 to clear up any confusion. "Boy What Nice Fellows" is apparently the lightning-bolt crack you describe as 10+ in your comment here but I don't think it's really 11b...

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