REI Community
The Northeastern Crags
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beanstalk Crack, The T 
Big Red Shoes T 
Bigfoot was Here T 
Br'er Rabbit T 
Chess With Justin T 
Encour du Bottom feeder T 
Farewell Ronald McDonald T 
Happy Camper T 
Jolly Green Giant, The T 
Mountain Minor T 
Pick a Card T 
Shapeshifter T 
Sojourn of Arjuna T 
Squeeze Box T 
Steady Yeti T 
Thin Slice T 
Wiessner Corner T 
Yeti Beats T 

Squeeze Box 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 8/24/14 Amy Colburn, Tom Bowker - 2nd pitch Amy Colburn and Mark Sprague Aug 13/2015
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 952
Submitted By: amy colburn on Sep 6, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Enter the Squeeze Box

Description 

The prominent chimney on the Beanstalk wall. The chimney was formed by a vein of weaker blocky rock, basalt, I think, which forms the back of the chimney. Climb the chimney until you can see through the 'box' to the upper section. You may want to pass the rack through ahead of you so you don't get jammed! Squeeze through the box and continue to the top via more chimney, crack, and some bear hugging moves on the final block.

Location 

When you hike up the trail to the Beanstalk wall, the chimney is right in front of you when the trail meets the wall.

Protection 

All trad gear to two bolted ring anchors. I used one large nut (for the first piece) and some of one set of cams to a #3 (for one of last pieces). All the gear goes in the granite- don't bother to place any in the basalt. When you rappel, toss the rope to climbers' right so that it doesn't get stuck in the cracks when you pull it. **yes, there is still some loose rock, it's an adventure climb!


Photos of Squeeze Box Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tom following on the FA of Squeeze Box, just getti...
BETA PHOTO: Tom following on the FA of Squeeze Box, just getti...
Rock Climbing Photo: Early exploratory picture of 'Squeeze Box' and 'Ha...
BETA PHOTO: Early exploratory picture of 'Squeeze Box' and 'Ha...
Rock Climbing Photo: Amy on the FA
Amy on the FA
Rock Climbing Photo: Amy on the FA
Amy on the FA

Comments on Squeeze Box Add Comment
Show which comments
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 8, 2014

Memorable.
By Tom Bowker
From: somewhere in the USA
Sep 10, 2014

I'm not a big fan of chimneys but this was a fun pitch. Impressive leap into the unknown by Amy!
By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 12, 2014

Sure..AMY fits in the chimney !!
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 16, 2015

Amy lead the second pitch this past week. Grade is maybe 5.8++, but a pretty adventurous feeling one. I wouldn't send anyone up it on lead if inexperienced and pushing their limit as placing some of the gear may be a little strenuous and barndoory to check, and you want to check them well to see that they are in the good rock. This climb is not completely civilized, despite the bolted anchors on both pitches :) But what a cool feature! Recommended if you like a little adventure.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About